Well guys, I’ve got the new clutch pack in and it still won’t find neutral. It definitely shifts better and the clutch pull is nice… but I still can’t get the bike into neutral while running.
Haha Barrett, we’re both on the same page, but for the sake of being thorough I gave it one last college try. I’m ordering the clutch pack as we speak. I’ll update once I get it installed.
Well guys, I’ve got the new clutch pack in and it still won’t find neutral. It definitely shifts better and the clutch pull is nice… but I still can’t get the bike into neutral while running.
You've probably tried this already. Back off on the primary chain adjustment.
Ive tried all sorts of things to get this thing to shift into neutral. im going to send it to the aagaard moto foundry and see what they can do with this thing. Ill report back.
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I’m digging into the primary. Does the clutch basket wear appear normal? There’s some slight gouging in the hub. The pushrod bearing seems good. Im pulling the basket to check the clutch basket bearing tomorrow. If that all checks out normal, im at a loss.
The bike came with aftermarket levers. Is it possible the clutch lever is to blame?
Thanks,
-pat
Because you said this:
then there is NO issue with clutch dragging, that commonly causes your issue.
Replace the shift star, lever/roller, and spring. Perhaps the detent is worn, the roller loose, or the springs weak. All super rare things but Heck, you're in there already, we're all guessing now, and it's not my money or my time.
I can tell you that adding a quick shifter certainly helps this common issue (and a fantastic addition). They are so rudimentary on a Buell that it still kills the ign (80mS) at idle and on the 1-N shift so it lets it drop into neutral easier. You never even posted what year your bike is so go find it yourself at Rev-Mo.com
Last edited by Cooter; 06-19-2022 at 05:16 PM.
The bike came with aftermarket levers. Is it possible the clutch lever is to blame?
YES.
What's the distance between lever tip and perch tip in millimeters at full operating temp with lever at full disengagement? Fat bulky grips also strongly affect clutch lever pull to full disengagment.
Last edited by Barrett; 06-20-2022 at 01:46 PM.
Not trying to be a Richard Cranium but what is a verifiable fluid type?
There has been some great advice here on just backing off the primary chain tension just as a test. If you open up the primary and you have a dial indicator, I would check to see if your transmission input shaft bearing is toast and even though you have what the proper adjustment is, it could be in a bind if your input shaft bearing is junk.
I'm going to suggest the after market clutch lever as the culprit.
I changed my clutch cable a few weeks ago, and changed to an after market clutch lever at the same time. Initially I had a similar issue with it, in that when I finished adjusting it as per the manual, it didn't slip into gear easy and was a bit 'grippy'. After a ride and warming up, going into first gear was a loud thump and crunch and the bike lurching.
Eventually I found the lever, while adjusted to factory spec's was the problem. ITS NOT FACTORY. I found as I adjusted the lever and increased or decreased the pull distance of the lever at the grip, the more or less of the cable was pulled. I fiddled around with the cable adjustment at the lever, resetting and adjusting a couple of times until it 'felt' right while in use. Took me a couple of hours of messing around, checking and rechecking, but smooth as butter now.
In hind sight this makes sense to me.
As Barret mentioned, if the cable mounting hole in the aftermarket lever is in a slightly different position, or the lever pivot point is slightly different than factory it will make a difference and will of course mean the factory settings for the perch adjustment will be different.
A similar situation to aftermarket brake levers causing issues when adjusted to factory spec's for a non factory part.......ending in front wheel lock ups etc.