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Thread: '09 1125 clutch cover upgrade to '10 spec

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    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    '09 1125 clutch cover upgrade to '10 spec

    Hey guys, hoping you can help me figure out the correct course of action here. I found a good Buell tech in my hometown and farmed out the valve adjustment job as well as the '10 MY water pump/clutch cover upgrade.

    Tearing the '09 clutch cover off, there's one distinct difference I'm unclear of how to address: the '09 clutch cover has what appears to be an oil drain line attachment plumbed from the rear cylinder head - the '10 clutch cover does not have this provision. What to do? If anyone has an exploded diagram of the '10 1125 engine, it might show this difference. My options appear to be modifying the '10 cover to accomodate the oil drain or remove the external oil drain line and plug the hole in the rear head.

    Any thoughts? Here's a few pics of the existing oil drain line.

    oildrain.jpg
    oilsource.jpg

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    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Scouring the webs resulted in finding this gem on Badweb. The line is to be eliminated and plugged when upgrading to the MY '10 cover.

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    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Not a drain line. It's actually an oil pressure line to cool the seal on the water pump, and the cover was cast with thicker webbing to accommodate the change. For your bike you can just block it.

    FYI the 2010 (only) 1125 inner clutch cover is identical to the EBR 1190's. Just went down that wormhole....

    E8254BCB-D2B0-49B1-92E8-D6BE540CBEEE.jpg

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    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Yikes, how did that happen?

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    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mesozoic View Post
    Yikes, how did that happen?
    https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...-just-shocking

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    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Got my bike back from the shop and had to do the customary full inspection after cleaning to make sure nothing was loose. The overall quality of work was good, finding only one radiator mounting fastener loose, along with the bolt fastening the cable retainer on the right side (including the clutch hydraulic line), a bit of wire harness that needs zip-tying, and draining the engine oil to get the level within range. I've now got the '10 water pump upgrade, high bar kit installed, and the front head needed valve adjustment (shimming) whereas the rear was in spec.

    It runs fantastic! It runs quite a bit better than it did before, so I reckon the adjustment was needed. Looking forward to getting back in the saddle and putting some miles on the CR - invested in a Laminar Lip since I intend to do some light touring with it soon.

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    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mesozoic View Post
    and the front head needed valve adjustment (shimming) whereas the rear was in spec.

    It runs fantastic! It runs quite a bit better than it did before, so I reckon the adjustment was needed.
    Hopefully thats just perception, ya know a placebo effect like 'it ran better after I changed the oil, lol'.

    Running notably better after a valve adjustment means that it was running poorly before and a sign of a problem. Since valve clearances shrink with wear, the only way they affect running and power (in a big enough margin to tell through your taint), is if the clearances went to 0 and they are being help open, which can burn the seats.
    Hopefully it was a small change? I would think any decent mechanic would be startled enough to find 0 and mention it to you, to see if you want to repair or lap the valves/seats.

    I hope if not adding unneeded concern, I hope you continue to pile on big miles! But IMO, worth it ask to your mechanic.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    The engine has only 25K on it and I put on the last 6K. I think the better running condition is actually from the spark plug replacement.

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    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Ok then, glad to hear its all ok. Enjoy running it!

  10. #10
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    So everything appears to be good, but clearly, the work done to plug the pressurized oil line at the rear cylinder head is not sealing very well. I've got some oil seepage onto the rear header and it's making a little mess. What have others done to to plug that no longer used port?

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