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Thread: Looking for tips on identifying/ fixing an intake leak.

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by lew360 View Post
    I found that a distributor clamp wrench works great on the front cylinder hex. Something like this Performance Tool W1189C SAE Offset Distributor Clamp Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N31ZJY...ing=UTF8&psc=1
    Cool, thanks for the tip.

  2. #12
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lew360 View Post
    I found that a distributor clamp wrench works great on the front cylinder hex. Something like this Performance Tool W1189C SAE Offset Distributor Clamp Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N31ZJY...ing=UTF8&psc=1
    Great 1st post! I have that tool and never thought to use that for this.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    I'm addressing some top end leaks and might end up pulling the entire frame as well - although I do currently have my engine rotated.

    A note on tuning interfaces - I have used ECMSpy in the past, but once Mark Mansur got the Buell plugin working in TunerPro RT, I've never looked back. That is certainly the de facto method of tuning ECMs of all kinds, not just Buell. It's probably not as user friendly as some mobile app as has been mentioned, though. It just depends on how much tuning control you need. If you're just looking to make some basic adjustments, I'm sure the mobile solutions are adequate.

  4. #14
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    Well I finally got around to doing this over the weekend. Pulling the frame is definitely the way to go, I wouldn't even consider an engine rotate after trying both. Unfortunately once I got it all back together and running, I still have a leak on the intake of the rear cylinder, so back apart it comes hahaha .

  5. #15
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I feel that right in the 'Oh damn it's'

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    I feel that right in the 'Oh damn it's'
    Haha, yeah was kind of a bummer. I put in new plugs, wires, and seals. Cleaned it all up while it was apart and put it back together. I set the TPS and it fired right up so I took it out to get it warm so I could adjust the idle. Came back, hooked up EMC Droid and noticed the idle was just barely high. 1150 ish, so I brought it down to 1050. But I also noticed my AFV had gone from 110 to 115.8. Fek. So sprayed some B-12 on the intake seals and sure enough, leaking at the rear. Ah well good learning experience.

    Side note, does anyone have the PN for the HD intake seals? I get loads of hits for the James seals, which is what I ordered from St. Paul, but if I'm going back in I'd like to have both on had just incase. I assume it's such common knowledge that no one needs to ask for the number anymore.

  7. #17
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pitcherman View Post
    Haha, yeah was kind of a bummer. I put in new plugs, wires, and seals. Cleaned it all up while it was apart and put it back together. I set the TPS and it fired right up so I took it out to get it warm so I could adjust the idle. Came back, hooked up EMC Droid and noticed the idle was just barely high. 1150 ish, so I brought it down to 1050. But I also noticed my AFV had gone from 110 to 115.8. Fek. So sprayed some B-12 on the intake seals and sure enough, leaking at the rear. Ah well good learning experience.

    Side note, does anyone have the PN for the HD intake seals? I get loads of hits for the James seals, which is what I ordered from St. Paul, but if I'm going back in I'd like to have both on had just incase. I assume it's such common knowledge that no one needs to ask for the number anymore.

    I believe the PN is this: 26995-86B

    Pulling the frame off is a PITA, but its only slightly more of a PITA than just doing a rotation. However, access to everything is so drastically improved that the additional time and effort pulling the frame, makes it much more worthwhile than doing a rotate.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34nineteen View Post
    I believe the PN is this: 26995-86B

    Pulling the frame off is a PITA, but its only slightly more of a PITA than just doing a rotation. However, access to everything is so drastically improved that the additional time and effort pulling the frame, makes it much more worthwhile than doing a rotate.
    Thanks for the number!

    Really the only part that made me want to chuck a wrench was pulling the tiny allen bolt that holds the rear brake reservoir on, it's just hard to see/ get to. I pulled both rear sets and the brake just so it wouldn't hit when setting the frame down.

    I was also shocked by how many zip ties had to be cut in order to get it apart.

  9. #19
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pitcherman View Post
    Thanks for the number!

    Really the only part that made me want to chuck a wrench was pulling the tiny allen bolt that holds the rear brake reservoir on, it's just hard to see/ get to.
    Yeah, that one is a pain. Once you get it, its not bad, but its a bit of a trick.



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