Thanks guys, that's a tremendous amount of help. I'm gonna order the switch and when/if the light goes out I'll change it out.
This might be the first glitch I've ever had on this bike. It's been rock solid reliable for years.
Barret, CC83, Both of you rock ! How many beers would you say the job is ?
Thanks guys, that's a tremendous amount of help. I'm gonna order the switch and when/if the light goes out I'll change it out.
This might be the first glitch I've ever had on this bike. It's been rock solid reliable for years.
Im just glad i could actually contribute to these forums instead of sucking them dry of whatever info im asking about or looking for.
Well if you count grinding and cutting socket.......maybe a 2/3 beer job.
Very simple and easy procedure. The best way would be to get a long deep socket so you can cut it around the front belt pulley. I had a deep socket but a longer one will work better. If I remember when I get home I will take a picture of mine and post it. But you should get the gist of what to do with video.
Green light went out again. I took the opportunity to try to start in in neutral with clutch in and out. It wouldn't start with clutch out, but started with clutch in, so I think that confirms the switch is bad. So I ordered the switch today from my local HD dealer. $17.50. Another thing, I did notice some back firing and lower idle RPM as stated above. Posting for posterity.
Quick question: Has anyone tried a crow's foot to get at that switch? I'm still ready to tear up a socket, but just wondering.
The crows foot attachments I have are too thick. Hence the needle nose solution. Needle nose vise grips work too if you have a set Its not on there very tight and theres no pressure behind it. It seals crankcase oil with a copper crush washer.
The tiny flat jaw adjustable pliers are awesome too and one of my favorite types of pliers:
Knipex:
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CC83 Thank you for the tip, I made as socket like yours,It works great.
Oh yeah, those are the best - Knipex FTW!!