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Thread: James intake seals

  1. #1
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    James intake seals

    21.jpg22.jpg I had to give up trying to install the JAMES seals which are the 2 on the top with the two on the bottom are OEM HD seals. The other picture has the OEM HD seal on the left and the JAMES on the right in the MANIFOLD SEAL BRACKET. Got them through DENNIS KIRK and Company with the JAMES part number was JGI 26995-97X. Tried for an hour and a half but could not make ONE out of the four manifold bolts go in straight. Tried a little high temp silicone grease on the seals and even lowered the engine down from the front engine mount using a Siscoes jack under the exhaust muffler to make a little extra room which helped a lot but put the OEM ones on in like 9 minutes.
    I hope that I am the wrong way on this and just going by all of the ones in favor of the JAMES seals on the form are right. Maybe next time. It finally started raining here in California so I can take my time and do a few other things to the BUELL like wheel Bearings and another headlight mod. Please share if you have what I was lacking. Forgot- My ride is a 2004 XB12R

  2. #2
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    XB series intake seals, thru the decades, have been discussed and berated with a religious fervor rivaling primary/trans oils.
    The link below will confirm via discussion that you're experience is the norm....not the exception.
    James 26995-97-X is correct.
    James XL-XR application 26995-98 also work perfectly and easier to install. Great sealing and longevity on XB's.


    https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...ake-seals-swap

  3. #3
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOTORCYCLES247 View Post
    21.jpg22.jpg I had to give up trying to install the JAMES seals which are the 2 on the top with the two on the bottom are OEM HD seals. The other picture has the OEM HD seal on the left and the JAMES on the right in the MANIFOLD SEAL BRACKET. Got them through DENNIS KIRK and Company with the JAMES part number was JGI 26995-97X. Tried for an hour and a half but could not make ONE out of the four manifold bolts go in straight. Tried a little high temp silicone grease on the seals and even lowered the engine down from the front engine mount using a Siscoes jack under the exhaust muffler to make a little extra room which helped a lot but put the OEM ones on in like 9 minutes.
    I hope that I am the wrong way on this and just going by all of the ones in favor of the JAMES seals on the form are right. Maybe next time. It finally started raining here in California so I can take my time and do a few other things to the BUELL like wheel Bearings and another headlight mod. Please share if you have what I was lacking. Forgot- My ride is a 2004 XB12R

    They are tough to install on an XB when the engine is installed in the frame. Thats why I always suggest picking up a set of OEM Harley seals from the local dealer even when someone is dead set on using James seals. That way, you have both sets of seals on hand in case the James seals dont work out. If you dont need the OE intake seals, you can normally always return them to the dealer. I'm not knocking the James seals, but the limited access of the XB really requires a 2nd set of hands.

    Most people disregard this advice and get downright combative about it, claiming that Harley seals have a "design flaw" but whatever. The dealer has been installing them since 1984 on hundreds of thousands of bikes that left the factory without a leak, but one person cant figure them out and its a "design flaw".

    Its always a good idea to make sure the intake flanges are flat and not warped or bent, and the section of the intake that the seals ride on is clean and round, as either can allow the setup to leak.

    And, I'm sure you realized this, but the flanges are specific to the front and rear ports.

  4. #4
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    I feel 100% better now that I knew that there was something slightly off and didn't force the install so when I am miles from home I don't have to make a phone call. I will note the WRIGHT James Intake Seal number for when or if I need to do Valves and Rings to then go with the James Seals. But as always this FORUM is the best when you let it. I should have spent more time researching the forum making sure I had the right seals period. I went to DENNIS KIRK web site and entered the Year-Make-Model for the part and it came back-Does not fit Your Model which I didn't do that the first time when ordering them. Thanks again for the correct Input fellow members.

  5. #5
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOTORCYCLES247 View Post
    I feel 100% better now that I knew that there was something slightly off and didn't force the install so when I am miles from home I don't have to make a phone call. I will note the WRIGHT James Intake Seal number for when or if I need to do Valves and Rings to then go with the James Seals. But as always this FORUM is the best when you let it. I should have spent more time researching the forum making sure I had the right seals period. I went to DENNIS KIRK web site and entered the Year-Make-Model for the part and it came back-Does not fit Your Model which I didn't do that the first time when ordering them. Thanks again for the correct Input fellow members.

    They fit, its just a bit much to install them in an XB with the frame still on. Pretty simple with with the motor out/frame off... or if you have a helper/2nd set of hands.

  6. #6
    Senior Member jetlee's Avatar
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    I've never had issues installing James intake gaskets in-frame. I do have spindly fingers, though, which makes it a lot easier.

  7. #7
    Senior Member mmcn49's Avatar
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    IMO GJ-Blue seals are superior to stock. Clearances are tight but have had no real issues installing. That said I've only done it with the engine rolled. I always coat the seals with Super Lube but silicone will work.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    I recently had to do some top end and other work to my '08 XB12Ss and I ended up using a engine hoist to support the front frame in addition to a transmission jack below supporting the engine. With this arrangement I was able to rotate the engine well clear of the frame beyond what would normally be possible if only rotating the engine down using a jack. The throttle body is fully accessible if lifting the frame off using the hoist, but of course, requires a hoist.

    XBEngineAccessRotateHoist.jpg

  9. #9
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Or a tie down strap to a rafter or a-frame ladder.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Or a tie down strap to a rafter or a-frame ladder.
    Correct. Same result.



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