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Thread: Resurrecting a Red Lobster

  1. #21
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Nope, both the stator and rotor are brand new but stupidly bought as HD OE, not upgraded. I'll see if my machinist has a .030" drill bit if you're interested. He has access to an EDM machine but the set up for one is dumb/expensive and IMO totally unnecessary.

    This bike has the Harley fix harness too and it charges just fine even with the OE heated grips on max. I might pull off the stator cover to see if this rotor has been done and remove the harness if it is, but for now I don't think I care enough to bother.

    The test ride revealed a pulsing rotor and a tiny oil leak from the cylinder head drain line, fixed the line, and pulled off the front wheel again. A warped rotor is rare (usually its brake pad deposits) so I removed the rotor, wired the deposits off, cleaned it, detailed/lubed/re-torqued the hardware, and nope Warped. Lame but luckily I had a really nice good one thats been collecting dust so I pulled the wheel AGAIN and swapped it on, re-re-bedded the pads and all good now! It's still fast

    All the Red Dragon needs now is a good polish and a 4-beer weekend detail, and then it will be ready to drink the blood of its enemies

    Anyone have a red solo cover?
    Last edited by Cooter; 01-19-2022 at 02:10 AM.

  2. #22
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdksh View Post
    Is it just me but are ALL previous Buell owners abusive riders that don’t stay up on basic maintenance?
    Q: Do you know what the cheapest part on a Buell is?

    A: The owner (unless your name is Mike)


    But yeah, most of the Buells I've bought have never had a lick of work done to them. The PO would take time to wire up a LED unglow system or replace the turn signals with some eBay/Amazon specials... but god forbid, change any of the fluids... are you crazy?
    Last edited by 34nineteen; 01-19-2022 at 11:44 PM.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    LOLS^^^^

    Brake fluid is black, right?

  4. #24
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    LOL it's funny because it's one of the few machines that has a dry sump oiling system, a vast improvement over traditional cheap wet sump systems. My buddy had an '06 CBR1000RR which seized up on the track from oil starvation in a long sweeper! The engines in either the XB series or the 1125 series bikes are relatively bulletproof.

    Not sure what I should do about my stator either - it charges fine with the HD fix and living in southern AZ you'd expect the heat to kill the system eventually, but it seems to be doing fine. I run Maxima 20W50 full synthetic and change it regularly, maybe that helps... who the hell knows.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I know, I know, OO! OO! Mr. Carter! Mr. Carter!

    Ambient temp is not engine temp, and really doesn't matter to a water cooled engine*. It should get to it's operating temp, then be controlled by the cooling system to not exceed that operating temp. Your cooling system is keeping it in normal operating temp range. Simply said: "oh my gosh, my fans are on, it's overheating!" Uh, NO. Normal operating temp is NOT below the fans turning off, it is is below the fans turning on*. Ironically, adding the oil cooling rotor mod you want is adding the heat it takes from the stator windings into the engine oil! So the trick is to not generate that extra heat from the charging system in the first place... lemme 'splain.

    The 'Harley fix' does exactly that by routing one leg of the stator windings through that little Bosch relay, making 2/3 of a charging system when off, and turns it back on when needed. By disconnecting that one leg of the charging system, it keeps the stator cool enough and you shouldn't have an issue. Ya, it's a cheap add-on fix, but it's proven to work. If you choose to 'fix' your working charging system, it's all in the voltage regulator.

    Heres why:
    The Ducati shunt style VR that is Buell 1125 OE, runs the stator at max all the time (makes the stator hot) and dumps the extra voltage straight to ground (makes the VR hot), and uses a SCR type transistor as a switch that is relatively slow creating even more heat in both things.

    The series-style VR you want, allows the stator to vary output to match the electrical demands the bike needs (no extra voltage to dump/ no extra heat). They are usually also MOSFET switched. That type of transistor switch is much faster so it generates much less heat in the VR as well. A worthy upgrade that would allow you to remove the 'Harley fix'. If you want more overkill, get a new stator that uses higher temp rated wire. After all, thats the part that melts. Even even MORE overkill? Get a rotor that sprays a tiny bit of engine oil into the stator windings and control the heat in the stator windings further. The engine was designed for it and has the oil feed in the crank already.

    TL;DR, Get any universal, series-style MOSFET VR thats rated for your max amp draw. Mount in a spot that gets airflow. Theres 5 wires. Input your 3 yellow stator wires in any order (they're all yellow), and output + and - to the battery. Go ride. Hope that helps!

    *Simplicity warning.

    Edit:
    Your buddies old Honda didn't seize up because of wet sump oiling. Look up Angular Momentum, HRC has.


    Last edited by Cooter; 01-21-2022 at 07:48 PM.

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