Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 20

Thread: New to this bike is engine knocking noise normal??

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2022
    Posts
    6

    New to this bike is engine knocking noise normal??

    Just picked up 09' 1125r and engine has a distinct knocking upon start up and while idling. Not really noticeable when riding but I've got helmet on so can't really hear anything. I don't see any flakes on dipstick so thats good. My question is this normal engine noise or are there known problems that need to be fixed. The bike has 16,000mi on it owner had got it from brother so didn't know much about maintenance done on bike other than he remembers bike going in to fix electrical issues. So I'd like to know if there is any like preventative maintenance I should do on the bike before I go riding hard. The oil looks brand new it was a little more than .25 Liter low when I checked it, so added synthetic 10w-30 and it make the knocking noise a little quieter I think. I don't see any places where it would be leaking oil and took finger felt around exhaust tip there no soot. I just don't any other 1125's to compare it too. I wanna go riding but I don't wanna make something worse. Any suggestions for new owner ?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    AmishLand, PA
    Posts
    497
    Known documented sources of engine noise/knock/rattle on all 2009 Buell 1125 models

    Charging system component known as the rotor has come loose from its crankshaft end attachment. Factory issued TSB re. inspect/install new nut/retorque to new specs
    Faulty cam chain tensioner on certain production date Rotax 1125 engines. Factory issued recall re. check and replacement
    Failing cush drive assembly(extremely rare)
    Clutch hub attachment nut loose

    I would NOT continue to ride it until, at the very least, the stator rotor is carefully checked for tightness. AND...most all 1125 cush drive assemblies have an acceptable "rattle" under load at 4000RPM and below.

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2022
    Posts
    6
    That sounds major. So I'm gonna have to invest in a service/repair manual. I'm hoping these are things I can repair myself, I have some mechanical sense. Is there a way to identify if the rotor/stator is original or has been replaced. Replacing the rotor was one of the re-calls i think. I'm gonna have to do some "how to" research on repairing this thing I guess. Hopefully theres a book out there somewhere lol. Now you say there is a noise under load 4000rpm and below does that mean at idle as well. I would hate to go deep into this engine only to find out it's just me being paranoid. What I need to do is track down another bike somewhere here in western Washington so I can here what it is supposed to sound like. So anyone in or near Tacoma WA hit me up if you have an 1125r I can listen to. Now that I said that I should see if theres any rider clubs around here, duh. Anyways thank you for the input I'll post results as they come. And I'm still open to any and all info on bike. Thanks

  4. #4
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Crawling up your skirt
    Posts
    9,986
    Heres a free copy of the service manual

    http://buellmods.com/content/downloa...ice_manual.pdf

    That link also has a diagnostic manual and electrical manual.

    That said, the 1125's have a notoriously loud (and normal) valve train that gets even louder with hard use and high temps. It can be disconcerting to new 1125 owners. The fact that you can't hear it with you helmet on tell me you're probably OK but shoot a good video and post it. Like Barrett mentioned, it is worth pulling the case sides to check torque on both the rotor and clutch basket. That doesn't mean crank them on as hard as you can, it means removing the nut, cleaning, apply red loctite, and re-torque. You should use the "crank tool" to lock it in place for that procedure.

    It is important to use a "V-Twin specific" oil at the weight recommended for the "highest temp it will be ridden" (Page 1-11). Typically thats 20w-50. Opinions abound but the manual doesn't care if its synthetic or not. I wouldn't worry about that tiny amount of 10-30 you put in (unless you overfilled it), but why not change it anyway, especially since the PO has no idea of its maintenance history. The check procedure is important to follow exactly, if it says ride it, ride it. Get it in the middle of the range. Dripping in oil to the top mark is something inexperienced people do, pointless, and importantly... too much oil can be just as catastrophic as too little. Thats why there is a "range".

    I was using an 1125CR for trackday riding in Hot Sticky Florida and that extreme example I was recommended to use straight 60 weight V-twin oil. It quieted the valve train noise considerably and the bike even ran cooler

    As a side note on the "electrical issue", it was a fault for 2009 only that the stator would overheat. The "fix" is a bypass harness to shut off one leg of the stator when it wasn't needed. Probably OK now, but if you want to obsess over it there are VR upgrades you can do.
    Last edited by Cooter; 05-15-2022 at 07:32 PM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Buc-ees
    Posts
    3,925
    Is it a red bike bought from some homeless guy in an el Camino in so cal. That would explain a lot!

  6. #6
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Crawling up your skirt
    Posts
    9,986
    It's not homeless. It is "The Way"

  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2022
    Posts
    6
    First off let me say thank you to Cooter for the manual. Earlier I searched on amazon they had 1 hardcopy in stock only $340.99 with a bonus electrical manual. Anyways I went to shoot a quick video of what bike sounds like on cold start and now the knocking noise is gone. I didn't feel like riding around in the rain to warm it up to see if noise would start again. Every other time I've started the bike it had a noticeable knocking. So I'm not sure what thats all about. The PO said he hadn't rode the bike to often so maybe things needed to loosen up in the motor from sitting to long. And yes as I type that last bit I realized how dumb that sounds. And yes dribbling oil to the fill line is done by the inexperienced, but it is also done by the eager who want to ride they're new bike and have enough common sense to make sure it has enough oil in it. But first thing is do an oil change, actually need to order oil filter first. As long as the oil that comes out doesn't look like a 70's jet boat paint job and the knocking noise doesn't come back I'm hoping I can put off having to crack open the motor right now. Haven't had a chance to read through manual yet so don't even know how difficult it's gonna be to get at those nuts and re torque them. Finally red bike yes homeless guy no. And I don't care what anybody says my last bike was an 03' Lightning with a Jardine slip-on and it sounded badass. I loved pulling up somewhere and people are looking around expecting some big HOG to roll up but instead it's me on some little street-fighter looking bike that should not be sounding like it does. To me thats the only real disappointing thing about the 1125r is the sound, well that and the cheap plastic dipstick they stole off a lawnmower. Thanks again for the manual it's much appreciated. Any suggestions on where to order oil filter from.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Crawling up your skirt
    Posts
    9,986
    I have a Barkers pipe and matching ECM for an 1125CR if you're interested Similar sound to a Jardine but MUCH higher quality
    However, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting the noise sorted first if it's a problem...

  9. #9
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Buc-ees
    Posts
    3,925
    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    It is "The Way"


  10. #10
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2022
    Posts
    6
    Bike came with Barkers exhaust on it and I'm assuming the correct ECM. Now if I remove the quiet core out of the exhaust do I have to do anything else like reprograming or tuning.



Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •