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Thread: ignition control module vs ignition sensor? 07 xb12r

  1. #11
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    All signs point to a failing CPS assembly. Bike is 15+ years old. Possible electrical gremlin lurking elsewhere but if in my shop...CPS is getting replaced...timing set...FC's cleared...and out the door.
    AGAIN: "Spongy" aesthetics-Applied heat causes failure-Hot start failure history-My hunch backside of sensor shows obvious visual failure.

    # 32443-04 BUELL SPECIFIC
    Must have suffix B1-P to be correct
    NO HD interchange....NO cross-reference....NO 2003 fitment....still available but pricey
    Money tight? Several good used on Ebay right now. All come with 40 day money back guarantee. I'd try that.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett View Post
    All signs point to a failing CPS assembly. Bike is 15+ years old. Possible electrical gremlin lurking elsewhere but if in my shop...CPS is getting replaced...timing set...FC's cleared...and out the door.
    AGAIN: "Spongy" aesthetics-Applied heat causes failure-Hot start failure history-My hunch backside of sensor shows obvious visual failure.

    # 32443-04 BUELL SPECIFIC
    Must have suffix B1-P to be correct
    NO HD interchange....NO cross-reference....NO 2003 fitment....still available but pricey
    Money tight? Several good used on Ebay right now. All come with 40 day money back guarantee. I'd try that.
    May Barrett live forever.

  3. #13
    Member evilokc's Avatar
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    i pulled the plugs and they were rich but not terrible. i soaked them in solvent and cleaned them with a wire brush until they looked brand new. rear spark plug.jpgfront spark plug.jpg

  4. #14
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Good, those look terrible. Now, do the step ONE thing you need to do.

    TEST for ****ing spark when it's not ****ing starting.

    Pull off the front plug boot, stick a screw driver in it and hold it close to the head (by the handle), crank it over. Got a little flashy lightning bolt? THAT answer will dictate your next move. Nothing else.

    Maybe you need a CPS? Maybe you need a coil? Maybe it's perfectly fine and just needs to be ridden (and for you to stop ****ing with it). If you don't "know" you are losing spark, this entire thread is useless.

    Or, you can play Battleship all you want, it's a fun game and it's your wallet. Good luck. Literally. You'll need it.
    Last edited by Cooter; 05-30-2022 at 07:16 PM.

  5. #15
    Member evilokc's Avatar
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    after cleaning the plugs and putting it all back together it started great twice. let it sit over night and im back to a no start. i put a spark tester on each spark plug and got no spark. put a meter on the coil. i got 0.9 on primary and 6.5 on the secondary. looking at the book that's in speck for the coil. seems the next logical test is going to be the plug going into the coil. im going to look it up to see what reading i should get off of that. any suggestions for a next step?
    Last edited by evilokc; 06-06-2022 at 12:40 AM.

  6. #16
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Ok, finally. Thank you. Thats an answer we can move forward with.
    I'm assuming 'No spark on BOTH cylinders while its cranking over healthily and quickly'
    So we're gonna go one step down the path, if you are right that BOTH spark plugs lose spark at the same time, it is a big clue.

    Ignition on/run switch on. Does the center wire on the grey 3-pin plug at the coil have power at the same time you're not getting spark? Check it sitting (12.5VDC+) and cranking (9.6VDC+).
    *No? Swap the IGN relay with one of the others (they're all the same) and check its connections. Do the terminals look blue, heated, corroded? and check that wire for continuity, it goes to the fuse box. Could be a cheap fuse or bad fuse connection.
    *My guess is you have a bad IGN relay or poor connection to it in the fuse box. But this is also something that would kill the bike while riding it... so the clues you've given previously are still suspect.

    (Super rare but...) Yes, you have power on that center wire to the coil while not getting spark? Ok then put the test light cable on battery (+) and the pointy end on each of the primary wires that go into the coil, they are on either side of that same 3-wire plug and they are the wires that fire each side of the coil when they are grounded. Crank it over. Does the test light flash?
    Yes? You have a bad coil. Replace it. Note that since it is 2 coils in one box it is SUPER rare that both sides would fail at once.
    No? Check continuity on those same wires (they go to the ECM). But it would be SUPER rare that both of them would fail at the same time or possible ECM fault.

    Wiring diagram at Buellmods.com or Google images.
    Last edited by Cooter; 06-06-2022 at 01:36 AM.

  7. #17
    Member evilokc's Avatar
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    i put the meter on the battery and had just about 13v . the center post on the coil plug. 12.5 static 10 cranking. power light clamp on the pos(+) terminal of the battery and probe in the coil plug. this is where it gets sketchy for me. first few cranks i got nothing on the front cylinder side. i moved it to the rear cylinder side and it did light but the light was very weak looking and it didnt seem to be flashing as fast as the engine was cranking. i know it lights or it doesnt but it wasnt nearly as bright as many other things i have used that light on. i put the probe back on the front cylinder and i got a light. same story though very weak looking flash. i plugged the coil back in and the bike fired right off.



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