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Thread: piston rings

  1. #11
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    As for the beer, I think that a case a jug is an appropriate barter for such knowledge and tool.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuddyB View Post
    Well, the gap is within the SM specs, so are you saying' I should go a bit larger?
    No. The SM spec is correct. He is saying it is just typically a wider spec in an air cooled engine than a H2O one.

  3. #13
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuddyB View Post
    Well, the gap is within the SM specs, so are you saying' I should go a bit larger?
    No, just make sure to measure them carefully and at a couple of different spots in the bore. The SM spec should be OK, but on the other hand I can call out more than a few misprints in the SM.

    Since an aircooled motor runs at a wider range of temperatures, parts will expand and contract more than a liquid cooled model.

    Don't assume the factory has it right, especially when you have the parts in your hands and they're easy to check at this point... and the penalty for failure is high.
    Last edited by 34nineteen; 06-17-2022 at 04:45 PM.

  4. #14
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Wait a sec.

    You mean I shouldn't be torquing my o-ringed drain plug into an aluminum hole, to 26 FOOT pounds!? I'm not dumb! It's what the manual said! I had a foot on the swingarm and a breaker bar to tighten it "properly to spec" and....

  5. #15
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Its even more awesome when the SM refers you to a page in the book that doesnt exist. Thats probably the most common error in the book.

  6. #16
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    No read, no problem.

  7. #17
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    Alright, here is the update to my ongoing sitcom...

    So I have honed and replaced rings on both cylinders, (being careful to check gaps) and went about the f..ing procedure to put the pistons back into the cylinders. You don't want to know what I'm thinking at this point... I bought a ring compressor from O'Reilly that could be dis assembled because the piston had to be inserted from the bottom of the jug. So the ring compressor needs to be able to be dis assembled after the rings are up into the cylinder. The idea is great but the actual function of this particular ring compressor left much to be desired. I at firs had to cut a bit of material from the tool so I could maneuver it while the engine was dropped.

    So the front cylinder went somewhat okay... I think. It took me like four or five tries to get the cylinder down over the rings with no problems. Very much bad words.

    The rear cylinder was a nightmare. I could not get the rings to go into the jug using the compression tool at all. I ended up finding a very thick piece of plastic and used a 4 inch hose clamp. I lubricated the plastic and the rings, and made my own ring compressor. It worked.... so I hope. I am now at the point of starting the put together process. Iwill update.

  8. #18
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    Well, I'm to the point of finally buttoning this bad boy up.

    I'm a bit confused by one thing... And since some of the posts are older and things change I'll ask anyway.

    Some are saying I should use regular non synthetic oil or even break in oil when breaking the motor in. I bought this bike used but did get the original owners manual with it. When the bike was new, the manufacturer just had recommendations on ride style and rpm limits. No mention of alternative oil types but does call for a 1K mile first service.

    I'd appreciate any thoughts.

    Thanks

  9. #19
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuddyB View Post
    Well, I'm to the point of finally buttoning this bad boy up.

    I'm a bit confused by one thing... And since some of the posts are older and things change I'll ask anyway.

    Some are saying I should use regular non synthetic oil or even break in oil when breaking the motor in. I bought this bike used but did get the original owners manual with it. When the bike was new, the manufacturer just had recommendations on ride style and rpm limits. No mention of alternative oil types but does call for a 1K mile first service.

    I'd appreciate any thoughts.

    Thanks
    I want to know how you made it so far without referencing a service manual. There are installation procedures and torque specs that need to be adhered to, to help insure success. I know the service manual calls out a suggested oil as well. Its even in section 1-5 which is oddly called out as "Fuel and Oil".


    There are also a whole list of suggestions on Hammer Performance's website with break in recommendations and procedures for new rings and what oil they recommend. They are one of the leading sellers of Harley/Buell cylinder kits and have a wealth of resources on their webpage. In fact, their homepage advertises Harley and Buell cylinders kits front and center.

    I would highly recommend following the advice given from Buell themselves in the service manual or from a proven leader like Hammer rather than just asking some internet randos, most of which should not be allowed near tools anyways.

    Since we are in a poetic mood lately, I dedicate this one to you:

    Violets are blue
    Roses are red
    Instead of reading the (free) service manual
    I asked strangers on the internet instead.
    Last edited by 34nineteen; 07-07-2022 at 03:34 PM.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    Sir: The seating of the rings to the piston lands and the bedding in of the rings to the cylinder walls, on a simple re-ring service, is very simple and straight-forward. I sourced the below for you directly from factory XL/XR dealer service literature as it relates to a re-ring of an XL/XR/XB engine. I'd also note to AVOID, at all costs, any stop-and-go situations and prolonged idling. Excessive combustion temps and cylinder finning heat is the death-knell of new piston rings, in short order.

    Use any quality traditional non-synthetic 20W50 oil for the first 1000 miles
    Vary throttle inputs
    Avoid lugging the engine with high loads and low RPM's
    Perform standard oil and filter change after approx 1000 miles of riding after this service.
    And the below is an excellent and time-tested way to quickly bed-in the rings:

    BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
    1. Make a test run at 30 miles per hour and accelerate at full throttle to 50 miles per hour in any higher gear. Repeat the acceleration cycle from 30 to 50 miles per hour ten times. No further break-in is necessary. If traffic conditions will not permit this procedure, accelerate the engine rapidly several times through the intermediate gears during the check run. The object is to apply a load to the engine for short periods of time and in rapid succession soon after engine warm up. This action thrusts the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating.



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