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Thread: piston rings

  1. #51
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    Thanks, I will check them out.

  2. #52
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    The rubber part is not supposed to come apart but you can see the bolts I'm talking about below. I've seen those "ears" break off on an impact more than once.
    Last edited by 34nineteen; 07-15-2022 at 06:19 PM.

  3. #53
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    Both front and back isolators seem fine, but I just remembered that when I put the center tie bar assembly back on, the holes didn't line up quite right and had to use a little force to get the bolts started. could the motor have moved laterally when I rotated it back up into the frame?

  4. #54
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuddyB View Post
    Both front and back isolators seem fine, but I just remembered that when I put the center tie bar assembly back on, the holes didn't line up quite right and had to use a little force to get the bolts started. could the motor have moved laterally when I rotated it back up into the frame?
    If the isolators are in good shape, you want to loosen the two bolts main bolts for the isolators and removing one of each of the tie bar bolts, giving it a good wiggle around and reattach and retorque the bolts per the spec in the book. It could be that the somehow the motor is twisted in the frame and just needs to realign itself. I'm really reaching for straws on this.

    I've noticed that some of the tie bars sometimes dont line up perfectly with the bolt holes, but I just loosen/remove both sides and reinstall, maybe with a little persuasion to align the holes. They sometimes are only off by 1/16" or so... anything more than that I would be looking for other issues. Unless you're installing them with the bike on its sidestand.

    The motor is really only held to the frame by 2 bolts, the big one up front at the front isolator, and the one going sideways through the rear isolator behind the RH peg mount. Withouth those two bolts in place, the motor is not connected to the frame (aside from the tie bars).

    Those tie bars are just to limit the lateral motion of the motor, whereas the isolators allow it to move in a lateral and vertical motion. You could also try removing those tie bars one at a time to see if one is causing the excessive vibration.


    Double check your homework on this:
    1. Are you sure the motor is running smoothly and not misfiring?
    2. Are you just not used to or remembering that these things shake quite a bit? You mentioned it had been a year since the bike was off the road. Maybe you forgot how shakey/vibratey this thing is.

  5. #55
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    I looked like pretty hard crash. Something could be out of wack or damaged or bent or .....

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outlaw View Post
    I looked like pretty hard crash. Something could be out of wack or damaged or bent or .....
    You are right except the bike ran fine between the time I rebuilt it from the crash to when I realized I had a pushrod seal leak (thus the gasket/ring job) can't help but think I did something wrong rotating the motor back up.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34nineteen View Post
    If the isolators are in good shape, you want to loosen the two bolts main bolts for the isolators and removing one of each of the tie bar bolts, giving it a good wiggle around and reattach and retorque the bolts per the spec in the book. It could be that the somehow the motor is twisted in the frame and just needs to realign itself. I'm really reaching for straws on this.

    I've noticed that some of the tie bars sometimes dont line up perfectly with the bolt holes, but I just loosen/remove both sides and reinstall, maybe with a little persuasion to align the holes. They sometimes are only off by 1/16" or so... anything more than that I would be looking for other issues. Unless you're installing them with the bike on its sidestand.

    The motor is really only held to the frame by 2 bolts, the big one up front at the front isolator, and the one going sideways through the rear isolator behind the RH peg mount. Withouth those two bolts in place, the motor is not connected to the frame (aside from the tie bars).

    Those tie bars are just to limit the lateral motion of the motor, whereas the isolators allow it to move in a lateral and vertical motion. You could also try removing those tie bars one at a time to see if one is causing the excessive vibration.


    Double check your homework on this:
    1. Are you sure the motor is running smoothly and not misfiring?
    2. Are you just not used to or remembering that these things shake quite a bit? You mentioned it had been a year since the bike was off the road. Maybe you forgot how shakey/vibratey this thing is.
    #1 ya know, that's possible, I use a long neck needle nose to put the rear plug wire on. I'm never positive about that.
    #2, like I told outlaw, I have ridden the bike a bit between the crash rebuild and the top end work. Ya, they vibrate a bit but this is actually making my butt numb.

    I just tested pos for covid so I'll have a couple of days out of pocket... But I'll get back to everyone with what I've found. Thanks

  8. #58
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    Well, finally felt well enough to work on the bike this morning. I did what 34 had recommended and loosened all of the isolators, and tried to wiggle the motor around jacking it up and down a little, then tightened everything back up. I also tried to double check the rear spark plug wire and it seemed to be okay. I took it down the street and back cause by the time I could take it out, it was 100 degrees. I'll try to get out earl tomorrow morning whilst it's not so hot out. But it did seem better.

    Crossing fingers.

  9. #59
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    Took the bike out this morning, 30 mile excursion. Bike ran great, though I think the vibration was a bit more than original, my butt and feet didn't seem to be bothered. Also FWIW, I could see things in the mirrors. I'm not sure at this point what to think... But am willing to give it a try. Thanks everyone.



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