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Thread: piston rings

  1. #31
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    Thanks

  2. #32
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    In the end, you're just gonna take this simple job and do whatever you want anyway. Just pick an answer you like and send it. No need to condemn an opinion you don't agree with, don't understand, or too lazy to do. YOU are the one that asked.

  3. #33
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34nineteen View Post
    Sportster and Buell motors tend to drain down the oil from the tank to the sump and cause a situation called "wet sumping". Some do this fairly quickly, some do it over a long period of time, some don't at all.

    If this occurs, until this is rectified the pump can cavitate and run dry, until the pump can get the oil back into the tank. This has been an issue on these bikes over the years, and the 2007 pump was revised to help address this. 2008-up models use a different pump design altogether.

    So, given the choice between following Barrett's advice and priming the oil system first... I'm with you... throw a battery in, hit the starter and rev that baby up. HELL YEAH!!!!!!!! Put some Monster Energy stickers on it while you're at it. Spray paint the exhaust black too. That would be so rad.

    Barrett's advice for purging the air oil first is for p*ssies anyhow, and you my friend, are not a p*ssy.

    Most of the companies that supply engine parts instruct people to properly heat cycle to the engine to help seat new rings. They have a deliberate process for how this should be done and say its mandatory for proper ring sealing, but what do they know, right? I dont believe this is covered in the service manual, so dont waste your time looking in there for .... wait...never mind.


    Here, let me help you with that. I dont want you to waste valuable time on the internet looking this stuff up. I realize you didnt install new pistons, and I hope that doesnt feel like a put down, but the point behind the instructions below is to help seat the new rings straight from the good guys at Hammer Performance. You're a good guy too, sorry if you felt excluded from that and that wasn't my intention.

    I do enjoy the irony of the 4th sentence, and I hope you do too. I wanted to make sure you saw that, so you don't feel left out. Sometimes CoOter doesnt point that kind of stuff out to me and I often feel hurt and left out. I dont want you to go through that.


    Proper break-in is critical to realizing maximum life and performance of your engine kit! We can't stress this enough. Follow these steps to the letter. Ignore any alternative methods you may read about on the internet!
    Minimizing heat is absolutely essential to successful break-in, and excessive heat will damage your pistons and forever condemn your motor to be a mediocre performer. The reason for this is that neither your rings nor your cylinder bores are perfectly round on initial assembly. Therefore, the rings are actually only making contact with the cylinder walls in a few places. The tension of the rings is concentrated in these places, increasing friction and heat. This condition exists until the rings have a chance to carve the cylinders into their shape. While that process is taking place, however, the rings and the pistons are very vulnerable to damage from excess heat. You can learn more about this phenomena by researching "ring microwelding". It's a very real risk to your engine!
    The assembly lube you put on the rings and pistons is to help combat ring microwelding. Yes, we know that some shops recommend minimal or even no lube at all to better assist the break-in process. We don't subscribe to that theory. Your rings are at much greater risk of microwelding than they are of failing to seat. They will seat just fine. You need to pay attention to the possibility of damaging them.
    On your initial start-up, run the engine no longer than 10 seconds. Use a clock with a second hand or a stop watch. Don't guess! Shut it off and allow it to cool completely to room temperature. A little bit of patience now will go a long way to providing you with a strong motor that lasts a long time.
    For your second heat cycle, run the motor no longer than 20 seconds. Again, time it properly, don't guess. Allow it to cool completely.
    Repeat these heat and cool cycles with run times of 30 and 40 seconds.
    You're now ready for your first ride. Keep the rpm's down as much as possible and keep air flowing across the cylinders. Ride it no more than a mile, shut it down, and let it cool completely
    For your second ride, treat it similarly gently. Keep your rpm's below 3500 and keep air moving across the cylinders. Ride it a couple miles and let it cool completely.
    For the next 50 miles, do not exceed 3500rpm and avoid using full throttle. Vary your speeds, allowing the engine to pull and then decelerate gradually. This reversal on the rings, from pressure to vacuum, assists in the seating process.
    For the next 500 miles, stay below 4000rpm, avoid using full throttle, and keep the heat down.
    Once you're past the 500 mile break-in period, change your oil. During break-in, the rings have carved the cylinders into their shape and the shavings have been captured in the oil, so you want to change the oil to get that stuff out. Use any high quality 20W-50 oil formulated for air-cooled V-Twin engines.
    BTW, if you do want to follow this advice (its from Hammers website). The assembly lube they recommend is Red Lines stuff, which is more like a grease. I also have Lucas assembly lube which is like a sticky thick oil but I've heard that can inhibit ring seating ( I have no idea why) . But I've done a few Hammer and NRHS kits and never had an issue following these instructions.

    However, Outlaw does have a good point as well. Ari Henning did an article about doing a "proper" break in and just hammering on it from day one.
    https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/b...break-in-myth/

    Here is some free advice you probably don't want. If you have to do this process again, next time fully remove the frame from the engine. The time difference between doing the rotate and frame removal is minimal, as most of the work for the frame removal is covered in the rotate. In addition, you get much better access to the motor and a great opportunity to clean everything up. If you leave the front wheel on the bike, you can easily lift the back of the back up and over the engine. I rarely do just a rotate anymore.

    As for not reading the SM, its not that big of a deal. I was watching someone work on a Buell motor and realized they were removing and installing the cam cover without loosening the rocker boxes. He got away with it, and the video of the build received praises from all (its actually a cool video). But I know he never opened that service book once.


    Last edited by 34nineteen; 07-08-2022 at 03:53 PM.

  4. #34
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    You are trying to help someone using information, logic, and reason. You must have no idea how the internet works.

    Nerd.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    In the end, you're just gonna take this simple job and do whatever you want anyway. Just pick an answer you like and send it. No need to condemn an opinion you don't agree with, don't understand, or too lazy to do. YOU are the one that asked.
    You are obviously drinking too much... All I wanted was some opinions on how to break in the bike after putting in new rings. Jesus, why are you all so f..ing weird?

    Gosh, all I was looking for is some direction.

    Quit being dicks.

  6. #36
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    Sniveling is for Facebook…….

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by cvc View Post
    Sniveling is for Facebook…….
    Ya your point being?

  8. #38
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuddyB View Post
    You are obviously drinking too much... All I wanted was some opinions on how to break in the bike after putting in new rings. Jesus, why are you all so f..ing weird?

    Gosh, all I was looking for is some direction.

    Quit being dicks.
    Wow. Some serious hurt feelings here.

    Lets start this over.... next time tell us in advance what you want to hear and we will do our best to comply.

    And here, we thought you wanted honest opinions and feedback. What a bunch of dicks we are!
    Last edited by 34nineteen; 07-13-2022 at 04:14 PM.

  9. #39
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    I intend to replace my Buell v-twin with a Mazda rotary. You can all pound sand. :P

  10. #40
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kz6fittycent View Post
    I intend to replace my Buell v-twin with a Mazda rotary. You can all pound sand. :P
    A guy installs a rotary engine in his Buell....


    Dont think I'm not stalking you.



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