forgot to mention there are no error codes on ECMdroid. I also ran all the active tests, and the pump does nothing at all when I try and test it there.
Hello all,
Been a solid year since I have had a problem with Gwenevere, but I'm back and I think she might have caught the Rona (or just playing hooky from work).
I have read through about 300 threads and my eyes are crossing. I have an idea on what I need to do, but would like some confirmation.
I haven't come across my exact problem in the threads, but similar and worse problems.
Took a 200 mile round trip run about 2 weeks ago. About 20 miles into a 100 mile return ride I stopped for gas. Filled up and the bike she didn't want to start. Turned off, did a TPS reset, turned back on, fired up.
literally at mile 100 of 101 mile trip bike starts acting fussy and didn't want get up anymore. I backed off and just cruised. At mile 100.9 of 101 the bike cuts off and I roll into my driveway. Talk about luck. I try to start the bike back up, but just keeps cranking, but won't turn over.
Bike turns on, light sequence on point. When I flip to "run" the bike has a really weak prime, like there is a clog or failure in the pump.
Troubleshooting:
Replaced Batter (mainly because it was time)
Checked all fuses
Checked all relays
checked wires (all appeared to be well)
I'm guessing I need to replace the pump, or atleast pull it and check, wires, sock, etc...Am I missing something?
I would Ride down to Cooter, but well I Ain't towing her on the back of the Heritage.
Do your worst.
forgot to mention there are no error codes on ECMdroid. I also ran all the active tests, and the pump does nothing at all when I try and test it there.
check grounds......... then sounds like if you aren't getting a good prime it is pump time
Weak prime. I prefer Optimus Prime. Freedom is the right of all sentient beings.
I was always more of a fan of the decepticons, anyway.
A failing fuel pump will most times exhibit nearly all the symptoms you just described. Included will be occasional excessive amp draw harming the key switch relay...inaccurate and/or failing low fuel sensor.....cold fuel frame normal prime but failing to prime and charge as the fuel increases in temp. A failing pump motor will show 40PSI or less when tested and most often randomly pop the 10A fuse. A healthy pump motor only draws approx 60 watts and when the motor is failing the draw will be in excess of 125 watts, or more, popping the fuse.
Ref your twist-and-go TPS reset remark...must be a 2008-2009 model. Very easy to properly rebuild with the correct parts. If 2010 model, quite a bit more difficult.
I would:
Remove and clean frame sump
Strip down pump assembly and replace only the high pressure feed line---5 O-rings----fuel sensor---high pressure filter---suction intake sock filter----high pressure filter bushings. Pump motor probably fine. They rarely wear out.
And you can even get the parts from ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^, guess who.
P.S. sorry, I left out that you will also get a discount which is extended to forum members.
He used to offer beer but that was before Cooter stopped by.
Last edited by njloco; 06-15-2022 at 01:00 PM.
Coincidence? I think not.
Yeah what Barrett said. The pumps being the same as some oem passenger cars and trucks that usually get 180 to 250 thousand miles on them with just a filter change every 30k. Still might be time though if high draw and bad grounding can cause starters and other electric and electronics to fail.