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Thread: 2008 XB12R - No Neutral Light - Wont Start

  1. #1

    2008 XB12R - No Neutral Light - Wont Start

    Evening from Perth Australia.
    Perfect weather and day off. Went to go for a long ride but she would not start...
    - Plenty of power, near new battery on trickle charge.
    - Key on switch on
    - Both needles go over and electrics kick in
    but...
    - The yellow engine management light and red oil light are all that come on - no nuetral
    - Definitely in neutral
    - Pull clutch in and try to start and get some hard clicking
    Does anyone know what is going on?
    Is it to do with the neutral switch?
    Cheers

  2. #2
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    Typically NOT exclusively to do with the neutral switch. On the 2008 all XB's...neutral switch-clutch safety switch-ECM all linked together to control both starting sequence and idle speed.

    See link below and Steve and my comments. This is the very first thing I'd do.

    https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...-t-Spin-Engine

  3. #3
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Thanks for the descriptive post!
    If swapping relays like Barrett said doesn't do it, know that if the starter solenoid is clicking it is not a safety interlock, but usually a lack of voltage at the starter.

    Check the battery for 12.5+VDC (12.0 is not enough).
    Top it off with a battery charger. A real charger. The battery maintainers are notorious for screwing you over, killing batteries if left on 100%, and take 4+ days to charge a battery thats down.
    Low voltage after a long ride is a inop or intermittent charging system. You should have 13.5-14.7 VDC while running. Less than that and you have a bad Voltage Regulator, bad stator, or bad wiring.
    Check the battery for +9.6VDC while cranking the engine over. Less than that is a weak battery, starter issue, or a wiring issue.
    Check the ground straps, especially where the battery ground attaches to the seat rail. You need to remove it, clean it and re-torque.

    FYI the neutral switch is a single wire sensor just behind and in front of the engine drive pulley, ground that wire and if the wiring is OK the green dash light will turn on. Got a light?, get a sensor (they can also be removed and successfully cleaned). Got no light? check wiring.

  4. #4
    Barrett and Cooter,
    Thank you for getting back to me.
    I understand and I am following up on the points you have suggested.
    I will buy another relay (I will swap one for now) and I will put the battery on a charger.
    I am also about to check the sensor
    What I dont get is why it only attempts to start (loud hard clicking sound) when the clutch is pulled in?
    Any ideas?

  5. #5
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Yes. I have some ideas to why it only attempts to start (loud hard clicking sound) when the clutch is pulled in:

    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Thanks for the descriptive post!
    If swapping relays like Barrett said doesn't do it, know that if the starter solenoid is clicking it is not a safety interlock, but usually a lack of voltage at the starter.

    Check the battery for 12.5+VDC (12.0 is not enough).
    Top it off with a battery charger. A real charger. The battery maintainers are notorious for screwing you over, killing batteries if left on 100%, and take 4+ days to charge a battery thats down.
    Low voltage after a long ride is a inop or intermittent charging system. You should have 13.5-14.7 VDC while running. Less than that and you have a bad Voltage Regulator, bad stator, or bad wiring.
    Check the battery for +9.6VDC while cranking the engine over. Less than that is a weak battery, starter issue, or a wiring issue.
    Check the ground straps, especially where the battery ground attaches to the seat rail. You need to remove it, clean it and re-torque.

    FYI the neutral switch is a single wire sensor just behind and in front of the engine drive pulley, ground that wire and if the wiring is OK the green dash light will turn on. Got a light?, get a sensor (they can also be removed and successfully cleaned). Got no light? check wiring.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    My pleasure. Resolve the simple typical problematic issues I outlined for you to include load test confirmation that battery is up to the task...replacement of starter relay....removal of plastic front belt pulley cover to reveal neutral safety switch and clean its terminal and feed wire....tightness of positive battery cable to starter solenoid. Report back with results.
    If failure-to-start problem remains, can walk you thru simple DC volts test to identify source of the problem.

  7. #7
    Gents, you are both onto it.
    I put the battery on 'proper' charge while I removed the neutral switch.
    The switch had come residue inside it but cleaned up with RP7. I checked the cable and switch after this and I got my neutral light!
    Once the battery had a bit more charge, she started. Reluctantly at first.
    It appears one of these two is the issue at this stage. I will go for a spin tomorrow and see how it goes.
    I should've only done one thing at a time to isolate the issue.
    If it happens again I will start by replacing the battery.
    I will update after my ride tomorrow - all going well!
    Thank you both again for your help.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Happy you got the neutral light back and the bike started, but you're not done yet!

    With your now fully charged battery:
    1) What is the voltage with the bike cranking over? More than 9.6V means a battery is fine. The little testers the auto parts stores use are junk. You need one with 220CCA minimum. The cheap 200cca ones are not enough.
    2) What is the battery voltage at 2500 RPM? Under 13.5V means you have a charging system issue and WILL be stranded again.



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