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Thread: '06 (B)Uelly

  1. #21
    Senior Member c3powil's Avatar
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    Wow, that almost makes me grateful for only ever having to deal with motorcycle carbs... almost

  2. #22
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Damn Honda (again) with their motorcycle V-4 has a carb in the middle damn near as big as the engine. Been there too CVC has a point though, they did run really well! Until they didn't. This was before sonic cleaners, just a pail of Berrymans B-12 and the employee sink to rinse them out. The trap on that sink got wore out taking it off so many times looking for a lost check ball, or 2, or 100.

    That smell still makes me twitch a bit.

  3. #23
    Senior Member c3powil's Avatar
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    Been there with the Berryman's before I discovered the Harbor Freight "jewlerey" ultrasonic cleaner. Hard to fit a whole carb in there, but can at least get the jets and passageways submerged. Glad my time with carbs are over now, though. I went full KETO so both my bikes (Uly and Honda CB500X)are FI.

    Last night the Uly stranded me... Stopped by the convenience store to grab a 6er on the way to band practice. Came out of the store and... no starter response. Nothing. Checked fuses and swapped relays around... all good. Started checking for any abnormalities... nothing. Read a few threads on similar issues. Tried a small wire on the clutch sensor, nope. Eventually my wife showed up with a bag of tools and I got the hex key I needed to open up the start switch housing. There was some corrosion and I was able to use the tip of my screwdriver to start the bike. Got home, cleaned up the corrosion, and were all good. Can someone tell me WHY, WHY are the bolts holding together the switch housing not the same torx bolts as the rest of the machine????? My onboard tool kit has a torx wrench and a hex key, neither of which were the right size for those.

    Other than that mishap, I need to remove the muffler so I can access the bolts which hold on the kickstand. The darned things keep vibrating loose and I can't seem to tighten them enough or add locktite without removing the whole muffler.

  4. #24
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    You may need to retap/helicoil the holes in the case. The threads may have gotten boogered up by a PO having it loose for awhile.

    You'll find a couple of T25 torx's used on some fasteners you'd think could/should be T27's. There is also a small mismash of metric fasteners on the bike as well. Its pretty trivial though.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    T27:
    Screen Shot 2022-10-11 at 11.45.18 AM.png

    Buell T27:
    Screen Shot 2022-10-11 at 11.46.03 AM.png


    And Ol' Sanford above is right about the kickstand bolts Can be done on a stand with a 90* drill, but you may have to cut the drill bit down.

  6. #26
    Senior Member c3powil's Avatar
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    I know I'm going to regret asking this, but what are the reasons why I wouldn't want to just take some jb weld and "fix" it that way...?

  7. #27
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    You already know the answer, and that's why you won't do that, right?? RIGHT???



    Installing a heli-coil is a simple and cheap process that will actually work to hold the bike up. Taking off the muffler is easy enough for access. I want you to do it correctly so badly that I will send you a kit for free if you PM me your address.
    Last edited by Cooter; 10-12-2022 at 05:46 PM.

  8. #28
    Senior Member c3powil's Avatar
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    I think I know the answer...

    Hehehe, but in all seriousness, I have a bad habit of attempting a repair the "easy" way by not removing some part or by not taking the time to dig out the proper tool. Always ends up being harder that it should have been. I think I have a Helicoil set somewhere. If not, I may take you up on that.

  9. #29
    Senior Member c3powil's Avatar
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    I've bump started a time or two, but only with carbed bikes. For some reason, I was under the impression FI vehicles shouldn't be bump started. I'm not sure why I thought that. I'm going to apply some dielectric grease to the starter button innards this weekend, so no more starting worries.

    I attempted to remove the muffler yesterday with no success. Took off the chin fairing, started unbolting the mounts, and the bolt closest to the brake lever on the rear mount is impossible to reach with any of my socket extensions. SO, I pulled off the front sprocket cover, removed the rear brake pedal, and finally unbolted the belt tensioner. I could not get the belt tensioner off no matter how much wiggling and prying I did. At that point I had spent much more time trying to get the exhaust can off than I anticipated... I bolted everything back up so I could ride to work today and ended up just re-tightening the rear kickstand bolt again.

    I was able to get some bright LED lights installed, since my low beam was out. At least something productive got done.

    I don't think I have a helicoil kit, but I do have a tap and die kit. I can try retapping the threads, but I have a feeling that wont help much, right? It would just make the threads straighter, not tighter.
    Last edited by c3powil; 10-14-2022 at 04:23 PM.

  10. #30
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Yes, a tap will just remove more thread material A hell-coil or time-sert is a permanent repair. The muffler can be fiddly, but gather the right tools and commit to finishing it. Easily done in one night.

    All that weight on those weak threads and you'll open the garage to find your bike taking a nap one of these days.



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