2006 XB12X Stumbling/popping on acceleration and Speedo dies but comes back to life?

[c3powil]

I recently purchased an '06 Ulysses with just under 18k miles. Looks like it has been well taken care of, as the PO had been documenting service intervals, installed a new battery, had the forks serviced by a reputable company, re-routed the breather lines, had spare parts well documented, etc.

I have owned if for just over a week, and ridden it almost every day for short periods of 15-30 minutes. Just yesterday, I adjusted the idle, checked the oil level (it was low, surprisingly, so I added about .25qt), adjusted the suspension as per the manual, and took it on an extended ride, finally. It was just fine until about 30 minutes in, I opened the throttle and heard a loud pop, the engine quickly resumed revving and creating more power, though. Since then, I started noticing the engine will stumble unpredictably under heavy throttle. Even from a stop it sometimes stumbles under acceleration. I noticed the speedometer also failed and figured that it was just time for a new cable. However, after stopping and letting the bike cool down while I bought a few groceries, I noticed the speedo had come back to life! I'm not at all sure this isn't just a coincidence, since I have no idea how the engine stumbling has anything to do with intermittent speedometer failure.

I have not yet purchased a Buelltooth, although I am ordering one tonight. In the meantime, what would you all suggest I look at first? I'm thinking it is possibly related to intake seals?

Thanks for any/all help.

[Barrett]

Entirely electrical-related. And there is NO speedo or tach cables on any XB models. Both gauges driven electronically via the onboard ECM. The ECM receives coil pulse signals which trigger the tach....the ECM receives rotational signals via speedo sensor which triggers the speedo.
It's not coincidental that your 2 issues occurred at approx. the same time. And neither issue will dump an active fault code into the ECM historicals. Electrical gremlins almost never generate FC's. Your XB is now 16 years old and needs the following to try and resolve this:
1-Check condition of your new battery terminals and all 4 battery cable ends. Clean and tighten if necessary
2-Remove right side switchgear cover and clean and lubricate kill switch and connectors
3-Clean and lubricate ignition switch and its harness plug
4-Remove front belt black plastic pulley cover...separate every single plug...clean and lubricate...reinstall
5-Remove front plastic fairing/windshield assembly from its mount. Check every single plug and connector and ground wire for cleanliness and tightness.
6-Check every single ground wire. They are front cluster grounds....frame tie-bar...ECM...sub-frame harness to sub-frame attachment point...negative battery cable end to sub-frame attachment point
7-Check for the dreaded "main power feed red positive wire" failure. Wrapped in OEM harness at the steering neck area. There is a specific way to test it for continuity
8-Replace the KEY SWITCH relay. Click my name...click active posts...scroll down to RELAYS comment...click same. I list the part number and cross-references for all relays.
9-Lastly, the Ulysses debuted in 2005. The 2005-2006 models had a propensity for the seat pan to rub against the ECM and its wiring harness plugs causing cracks and damage to both the plugs and the ECM. With seat removed check your ECM for signs of tell-tale seat interference. A cracked/compromised ECM will cause precisely your identical problems.

Good luck and report back with findings.

[Cooter]

Barrett has great advise as always ^^^^
Was it the speedo that died? or both the speedo and tach? If it's indeed only the speedo and/or it dropped to 0, it is the speed sensor or circuit only. The sensor is located on the engine above the belt pulley, black, one bolt. Take to out and clean it off. It's magnetic and can get gunked up. Look close at the wires too.

If it was both gauges that died or just stayed at whatever reading, it is power or ground to the gauge cluster (instructions above). The ground mount at the steering neck is notorious for breaking.

If it's stumbling under heavy load it could also be a weak fuel pump or compromised pressure hose/ clogged filter. It's all in the tank. Fuel pump replacement is very easy if you know the cheats, but test it first. 16 year old motorcycles do this kind of stuff. Barrett above offers OE quality re-build or replacements and do NOT be tempted by cheap e-Bay junk. It is... well.... junk. Easy to test fuel pressure with a gauge and adaptor (Rev-Mo.com) before you commit to that. 49psi is spec.

[ztied]

Good advice from Barrett, and Cooter as always. I can also vouch for Barrett
, fast shipping, and a great person to deal with.

[c3powil]

Thanks guys. This is really great info. I realized the speedo was all electronic last night when I was inspecting it. I have been wary of the ECM cracking issue, but it seems to be okay, so far. The PO or maybe the PPO put a strip of fuzz/velcro on top of it, I'm assuming to cushion the top, but I don't see it being that effective. I will go through all the points Barrett listed above.

Cooter, it was the Speedo only that died. It dropped to zero, and the next time I started up the bike it was up and running again. I'll include that sensor in my list of cleaning.

Fuel pump issues makes sense with the stumbling. Might be a good idea to get ahead of the game and do a rebuild whether it really needs it or not.

I will report back after doing some cleaning and inspection of the terminals and ECM.

[Cooter]

Theres a relocation bracket for the ECM to get it away from the weight of the seat, but its also something you could probably bend up in the garage. Having a PO 'repair' isn't a good sign. Nothing wrong with disconnecting the plugs and 2 bolts to inspect it.

OK, if it's just the speedo its either internal in the gauge (super rare) or the sensor/wiring to it. I've been pretty lucky cleaning them but they are interchangeable between all XB's except '03 where they were a 12v signal not a 5v like they are '04-current.

The best choice is a new fuel pump (ask Barrett) to breath new life into something you're hopefully going to ride a lot and far away! A new fuel pump assembly will have a clean sock, a clean filter, a new pressure line, o-ring, correct regulator, and pump. Erasing 16 years of abuse can be easy if you do it right. Just ask my girlfriend (snicker).

To paraphrase the fuel pump cheat:
Chock the front tire and hang the rear of the bike from the pillion peg mounts to the rafters (or A-frame) ladder to let the rear tire off the ground slightly. Pull the lower rear shock bolt out and let the swingarm down. That will give you enough room to sneak the pump assembly past the swing arm with a little twist. Uly's are pretty tall already and that helps immensely. I've got it down to about 10-15 mins if the o-rings don't fight me too badly.

Like this:

[c3powil]

Awesome garage! Appears to be pretty straightforward. You think my old wooden 6ft A-frame ladder is up to the task?

[Cooter]

Thanks I rent a space out of our workshop down the street, I leave the garage for detailing stuff and drinking 34:19's beers I steal

Ya it's maybe 200lbs at most and even less when you drop the swingarm.

[34nineteen]

Thanks I rent a space out of our workshop down the street.

Cooter calls it renting. Legally its considered squatting.

Cooter is like that stray cat who comes around looking for food. Once you feed him, he'll never leave. All I hear at night is 'you know who' with a clapped out 307 with cherry bombs driving past my garage hoping to see the light on. I can hear that power steering belt squealing a mile away.

[Cooter]

I can her a beer fridge opening a state over and know what kind of beer it is.