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Thread: 2006 XB12X Stumbling/popping on acceleration and Speedo dies but comes back to life?

  1. #11
    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    I can her a beer fridge opening a state over and know what kind of beer it is.
    Unfortunately, I cant hear rattly lifters until its too late.

  2. #12
    Senior Member c3powil's Avatar
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    I check the battery terminals and ECM today and everything looked good. I haven't gone through everything yet but I went on a ride and none of those symptoms seem to be present. Heavy throttle and not one pop the entire 30 to 45 minute ride. I know that doesn't mean I'm out of the woods yet, but maybe I have some time. The bike seems to be in pretty good shape otherwise. I plan to replace the fuel pump and the fan some point in the near future just to give myself peace of mind. The fan has that gravelly grinding sound so I know I've got limited time on that.

  3. #13
    Senior Member c3powil's Avatar
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    I purchased the key switch relay and a new fan replacement, so I should have those done pretty soon. I experienced another misfire wile on a ride last night, so hopefully I will have time this weekend to go through all of those electrical checks and cleaning.

  4. #14
    Senior Member c3powil's Avatar
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    Good news update:

    My Buelltooth arrived. I used it to perform a TPS reset, and oh boy, what a difference did that make! The RPM range below 3k was so vibratory it was borderline unusable before the reset, and I just thought that was part of having a thumping "Harley" v-twin motor. Now I can happily sit between 2-3 thousand RPM without getting my hands shaken off the bars, and 3k and up is almost completely vibe free. I haven't noticed any of the misfiring or stumbling since performing the TPS reset. There are no current errors in the "trouble codes" section of ECM droid, but the "stored errors" sections seems to indicate AMC stuck open, AMC stuck closed, and AMC short to ground.

    I'll still check each of those grounds and connections to avoid future troubles, but I think the TPS was the solution I needed. The Speedo malfunction/short may well have been a coincidence, or perhaps even cause by the jolt of the misfire/backfire. I've ridden the Uly a total of 200 miles so far, and I've filled up twice. Before the TPS reset, I calculated 34 MPG. Of course this was while I was testing out the bike, going on shorter rides, giving it a lot of WOT. After the TPS reset, 50 mpg with more highway riding than city riding. I have a feeling the TPS reset did result in higher MPG, since I smell less, if any, gasoline in my garage after a ride now. But I'm aware it would logically increase due to my riding style being more MPG friendly on that run.

    I also decided to check my primary oil, and it seemed quite low, although hard to see exactly where the level is through that adjustment window. I rode down to the Harley dealer and picked up a quart of Formula + and changed the oil. Last change was done about 7K miles ago, and the new primary oil really seems to make the shifting easier. Neutral is a lot easier to find.

    Another "improvement" I've made is to tape up most of the gaps in the frame directly under the front of the seat with heat-reflecting HVAC tape. Huge improvement on seat comfort. I still get a blast of hot air to the right calf when the fan is on, but no more burning thighs.

    Now that the vibration and shifting has gotten better, fueling seems to be sorted, and the heat managed, I'm really enjoying this bike.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    There are no current errors in the "trouble codes" section of ECM droid, but the "stored errors" sections seems to indicate AMC stuck open, AMC stuck closed, and AMC short to ground.

    Interactive Exhaust Valve system glitch. Lube IEV atop stock muffler...lube IEV actuator cable....adjust cable to remove all slack when IEV in closed position.

  6. #16
    Senior Member c3powil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett View Post
    There are no current errors in the "trouble codes" section of ECM droid, but the "stored errors" sections seems to indicate AMC stuck open, AMC stuck closed, and AMC short to ground.

    Interactive Exhaust Valve system glitch. Lube IEV atop stock muffler...lube IEV actuator cable....adjust cable to remove all slack when IEV in closed position.

    Thanks, Barrett. Will do! How effective is the IEV? It's another one of those Buell oddities that I really admire, but I also might like to swap the muffler one day for something a little nicer sounding.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c3powil View Post
    Good news update:
    Another "improvement" I've made is to tape up most of the gaps in the frame directly under the front of the seat with heat-reflecting HVAC tape. Huge improvement on seat comfort. I still get a blast of hot air to the right calf when the fan is on, but no more burning thighs.
    I wouldn't. I know the Buell-heat-on-the-thigh sucks but its the output of the scoop airflow and engine fan. Blocking the cooling flow output is as bad an idea as it sounds.

    Super happy it's all coming together for you! You're doing the right stuff and should be rewarded with a dependable travel steed

  8. #18
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c3powil View Post
    Thanks, Barrett. Will do! How effective is the IEV? It's another one of those Buell oddities that I really admire, but I also might like to swap the muffler one day for something a little nicer sounding.
    With a completely stock IEV system, it reduces the dip in the 2500-3500 torque curve well enough that Erik 'king of reduced mass' Buell thought it was worth the complication and weight. To my knowledge it's not an 'EPA thing'. There are quiet-ish aftermarket systems that eliminate that and a legit Buell "race tune" would work with all of them and is a really good map, but careful of imposters!

    If you want to keep it functional, theres detailed diagnostics in the manual. It's a servo on the airbox lid (Do NOT crank it by hand or the plastic gears will strip), a cable to the muffler, and a butterfly diversion valve in the muffler. No, wiring it open won't do anything Don't worry if you cant find parts, theres of replacements available from people that eliminated the system. Like me.
    Last edited by Cooter; 08-22-2022 at 03:52 PM.

  9. #19
    Senior Member c3powil's Avatar
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    Thanks, Cooter. I have the right side air scoop and may even modify the fan curve to come on at lower temps to help with the heat. I have seen others do the same, and there even used to be a nice product by Odie which seemed to block those gaps as well. I know that doesn't necessarily mean it wont cause a problem, but I have yet to notice engine temps any higher than they were before. I'm using the live data on my buelltooth to monitor the engine temps every now and then. At any rate, doesn't the ECM include a high heat mode that stops the spark on the rear cyl when temps get too high? If so, wouldn't that be an indicator that the blockages are causing issues, or am I risking something more?

    The ideal solution would definitely be to provide a better route for the hot air to flow, rather than blocking off the current one. Maybe I will look into that.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Up to you I guess? We can all justify anything we want to Yes there are engine overheating protocols for extreme situations. Not sure if I’d want mine bouncing off those parameters myself.

    Yes you can lower the fan on temp, it will make that little guy run more but I dont think that lowers engine running temps as anything past 10-15mph has more airflow than that tiny fan.



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