TPS reset makes no difference

[Nade]

My bike ran a bit rough on my last outing. Idle was low, coughed thru the intake every now and then and then eventually wouldn't hold an Idle for more than 20 seconds before shutting off.

I thought those helpful and knowledgeable forum guys will know whats wrong....I'll give them half the story, with vauge descriptions. and before you know it it'll be firing off down the road in no time.

Seeing as its been a while......TPS reset...fixes all Idle problems, but failing that i'll get a Race tune and reflash the ecm....always wanted a 'race' tune.

While I muck around getting a tune for my std bike.....I'll chuck a set of plugs at it. Its been longer than I can remember. Can't hurt can it?

[34nineteen]

My bike ran a bit rough on my last outing. Idle was low, coughed thru the intake every now and then and then eventually wouldn't hold an Idle for more than 20 seconds before shutting off.

I thought those helpful and knowledgeable forum guys will know whats wrong....I'll give them half the story, with vauge descriptions. and before you know it it'll be firing off down the road in no time.

Seeing as its been a while......TPS reset...fixes all Idle problems, but failing that i'll get a Race tune and reflash the ecm....always wanted a 'race' tune.

While I muck around getting a tune for my std bike.....I'll chuck a set of plugs at it. Its been longer than I can remember. Can't hurt can it?

Wouldn't hurt to pull them out and take a look. Also, I'd recommend to check the the intake seals and the fuel pressure (49 psi). Check your AFV to make sure thats not out of whack. If its too far over 100, its a sign that the bike is running lean.

[Nade]

AFV was 93.
Plugs arrived today but I was at work so the courier decided to NOT leave them and took them back to the depot with him. I'll get them tomorrow.
Intakes I've given a squirt and no change to RPM's. I do have a spare set of intake seals for 'just in case sake' I got when I changed them a couple of years ago, Blue 'James' type I think......they are somewhere in my tool box.
I'll do the Plugs before anything else.....just to see what difference is made.
I have a Fuel Pump Kit from LF Industries if that turns out to be the issue. From a memory when I bought the bike, the previous owner said he changed the fuel pump and the cooling fan......everything else he had touched was a disaster that I had to correct or remove so here's hoping its not failing.

[34nineteen]

Hmm, running rich, but not too badly. The AFV "swings" around a bit as the motor runs, so it may be at the rich side at the time you checked. Your description of the issue sounds more like a lean mix than rich.


When you do the plugs, I would recommend to check the seals again. Not that I think you did it wrong the first time, but you have to remove the LH scoop to get at the plugs which will give better access to the intake flanges. Unless of course you pulled the scoop when you checked the seals.

Also, even if the new pump is failing or just the victim of a hot mess installation, it would be putting out less fuel than more, which would also call out a lean condition.

I'm sure you checked this also, but verify the TPS reading is "smooth" (like me) with no dropouts (like CoOter) as you rotate the throttle. This is kind of a long shot, and more of an excuse to take a dig at CoOter, so I figured why not.

[Nade]

I had a play with the throttle and found it is not snapping back like I think it, or thought it used to. Kinda snaps 2/3 of the way then slows and feels like there is way less tension on the return for that last 1/3. I will be investigating further when the air box comes off to fit the plugs, as I fitted Venhill teflon cables and I remember how smooth and faultless it was back then.....I raved about them.
I didn't get the plugs today, too damn busy at work atm.
I will look at the drop out situation, its kinda fun to keep the 'odd' one around just for ****s and giggles. Its the drop outs that go full retard, like teabag the russian, you never wanna go full retard. I hear you just add beer, or take it away as the situation deems and a drop out will do most things atleast once.....Go on Cooter tell us we are wrong!

*edit* I do remember now that when I went to do the TPS reset that the throttle felt different. After I wound the idle out, I did a visual of the Butterfly to ensure it was closed fully and assumed (I fkn hate assumptions) the different-ness was the butterfly sticking closed as described in the manual when the Idle is wound out.....might be that my flash cables are dirty/sticky, or they are pinching some where, return spring losing tension? Or or or maybe the 'race tune' will fix it!!!! Just add beer, and don't go full 'tard.

*edit2* going to pull the front plug now.....can't help myself...must....know.....why.......!

*edit3* bottom plug is the front one, top one is the rear. They are fooked. centre electrodes are sloping down or back towards the outer post and look slightly swollen at the tip...well, thats what she said.....but I digress.
20230119_195459.jpg

[Nade]

"don't go full 'tard" I said...When I last fitted my tank bag, there is a strap that goes round the neck and under the frame by the front engine mount......I had it on the wrong side of the throttle cables pushing them against the frame....when I released it the throttle loosened up. One less beer next time 'tard!

[34nineteen]

"don't go full 'tard" I said...

too late!

I'm kidding. Thanks for reporting back the results and the positive reviews of the Venhill cables.

[Nade]

by the by, an NGK Iridium plug to buy from the local parts store REPCO an Australian company is $72, here is the plug:
https://www.repco.co.nz/en/parts-ser...NGK%20dcpr8eix

You can imagine my response to that price check!!! I got some from the local Auto Electrician (admittedly we use them at least once a week cos I hate working on the electrics of our American Kenworths so I got a Trade Discount) they sold them to me for $35 each, 1/2 the price.
REPCO is Known by another name here....Rip Every Poor C**t Off.....bloody Australians. The joys of living in buttfk no where at the bottom of the world.

Buelling down here is for the dedicated!

[34nineteen]

by the by, an NGK Iridium plug to buy from the local parts store REPCO an Australian company is $72, here is the plug:
https://www.repco.co.nz/en/parts-ser...NGK%20dcpr8eix

You can imagine my response to that price check!!! I got some from the local Auto Electrician (admittedly we use them at least once a week cos I hate working on the electrics of our American Kenworths so I got a Trade Discount) they sold them to me for $35 each, 1/2 the price.
REPCO is Known by another name here....Rip Every Poor C**t Off.....bloody Australians. The joys of living in buttfk no where at the bottom of the world.

Buelling down here is for the dedicated!

I've never noticed a difference in the NGK Iridiums. I think my bike runs better with the Harley 10R12X(OE spec for the XR1200, which is basically an XB engine). This plug supposedly has an electrode designed to resist fouling, which I feel is helpful with the "high state of tune" and the rudimentary injection of our bikes, especially as they age.

[Nade]

Yes I have heard that the only real difference is the iridiums longevity and its resistance to fouling. 60k as opposed to 10k for an OE plug. Changing the plugs every 10k does have the added bonus of getting the chance to view the throttle body/ intake assy etc up close. Thru my job sadly I'm used to some people only doing maintenance on Vehicals when there is a problem which can lead to costly repairs and downtime. Ive learned to take the chance to check things over at every opportunity, whether its needed or not.