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Thread: Belt loss and sprocket options

  1. #1
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Question Belt loss and sprocket options

    Finally snapped the original belt on my 2008 XB12Ss and it fortunately occurred right around the corner from my office after a some very spirited riding through the canyons leading to it.

    The service manual says that any missing coating over 0.25" is subject to sprocket replacement, but they're a bit like unicorns and pricey to boot. Any way to recondition the existing sprocket? I was thinking it might be cheaper to take it to a reputable coating specialist and have it refinished or something. Maybe even hard anodized. I looked at converting to chain drive, but not really sure I want to commit to that at this point.

    Here's a couple of snaps of what my sprocket looks like with fairly typical coating chips missing, definitely longer than 0.25" in many cases. The belt loss was probably caused by some debris that has gouged the edge of the sprocket seen in the 2nd photo. That would probably need to be sanded down and smoothed out...

    IMG_0085.jpgIMG_0088.jpg

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    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    The front belt drive pulley is raw unfinished. The rear belt drive pulley is lightly baked enamel wrinkle finish. OEM drive belt is lightly coated with protective sirlin coating.

    ALL SS...X...XT info below:
    BELT---135T---PART # G0500.1AKF----MULTIPLES IN DEALER SYSTEM
    FRONT PULLEY---27T---PART # 40288-95---OVER 100 IN DEALER SYSTEM--CROSSES TO XL
    REAR PULLEY---65T---PART # G0400.1AA---MULTIPLES IN DEALER SYSTEM

    Rear looks heavily worn and I'd replace it. Fronts seldom show any signs of wear. Good used 65T rear pulleys on Ebay.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett View Post
    The front belt drive pulley is raw unfinished. The rear belt drive pulley is lightly baked enamel wrinkle finish. OEM drive belt is lightly coated with protective sirlin coating.

    ALL SS...X...XT info below:
    BELT---135T---PART # G0500.1AKF----MULTIPLES IN DEALER SYSTEM
    FRONT PULLEY---27T---PART # 40288-95---OVER 100 IN DEALER SYSTEM--CROSSES TO XL
    REAR PULLEY---65T---PART # G0400.1AA---MULTIPLES IN DEALER SYSTEM

    Rear looks heavily worn and I'd replace it. Fronts seldom show any signs of wear. Good used 65T rear pulleys on Ebay.
    Thanks very much! I'll be making a trip to my local HD dealer this week.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Ordered from my local dealer - cheaper than online!

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    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    IMO, replace those rear wheel bearings*. Uly's especially like to kill bearings with a new belt replacement. The factory tension is just fine, bad installation procedures started that rumor. Axle torque procedure is critical, every time you R&R the rear wheel. Tighten axle to 25ft/lbs, spin the wheel, back off 4 turns, re-tighten to 50ft/lbs.

    You may need some heat to loosen the old loc-tite on the pulley bolts, but careful on the wheel finish! I'll break those bolts loose with a breaker bar and torx socket while the wheel is still on the bike to use as an anchor. Torque to spec in a lug-nut pattern, an overtightened or a too loose pulley will ruin a thin Buell wheel

    *With the bearings out, check that bearing spacer for damage on the ends. A wheel that has been over-torqued ONE TIME will crush that aluminum spacer, side load the roller bearings and kill them quickly from that point on, until its replaced.

    Hope that helps!

  6. #6
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    I always use a calibrated torque wrench for everything since my job is working on aircraft, so I don't think I'd be dealing with an overtorque situation, but that pulley has been on for a long time. At one point, many years ago, I had a rear wheel bearing failure and replaced the entire wheel with a 2010 MY unit that has the 3 bearing setup. I've not replaced those bearings since that installation because they still seem to spin freely, but at this point, I will probably go for a new set. Does anyone know what the interchange is on those? I don't have the wheel in front of me... I think all 3 bearings are the same.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    The rear wheel bearing interchange may be 6206-RS2. I picked up some Nachi bearings that say they're made in India, but the industrial supplier thinks they're good.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mesozoic View Post
    I always use a calibrated torque wrench for everything since my job is working on aircraft, so I don't think I'd be dealing with an overtorque situation, but that pulley has been on for a long time. At one point, many years ago, I had a rear wheel bearing failure and replaced the entire wheel with a 2010 MY unit that has the 3 bearing setup. I've not replaced those bearings since that installation because they still seem to spin freely, but at this point, I will probably go for a new set. Does anyone know what the interchange is on those? I don't have the wheel in front of me... I think all 3 bearings are the same.

    YES Sir...ALL 3 of the rear wheel bearings the same. See attachment for OEM part numbers if needed. I know you're talented and very skilled but don't forget the left side spacer....part #1...during reassembly. And ALWAYS remove the brake caliper PRIOR to attempting to loosen rear axle. Always. The rear axle often tends to want to "grip" the wheel bearings during this procedure....pulling the wheel assembly over towards the belt side and bending the hell out of the rotor. Just FYI.

    5820_20100910124152_L.jpg

  9. #9
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett View Post
    YES Sir...ALL 3 of the rear wheel bearings the same. See attachment for OEM part numbers if needed. I know you're talented and very skilled but don't forget the left side spacer....part #1...during reassembly. And ALWAYS remove the brake caliper PRIOR to attempting to loosen rear axle. Always. The rear axle often tends to want to "grip" the wheel bearings during this procedure....pulling the wheel assembly over towards the belt side and bending the hell out of the rotor. Just FYI.

    5820_20100910124152_L.jpg
    Good point, will remember to remove the brake before loosening the axle. Regardless of talent and skill, still been known to blow things up from time to time! Thanks again for all the detailed information. Looks like I'll be able to continue riding my XB12Ss, after all.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Got ma sprocket in for $208, planning to install it this weekend. I'm going to see if I can refinish the old one as well, not sure what it will take yet, but I guess it would require stripping down and then refinishing to make sure all the teeth were properly coated in enamel.



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