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Thread: Been gone long time, stator question

  1. #21
    Senior Member Gloomshadow's Avatar
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    yeah some places are saying 13.1 at idle or greater at the battery terminals... mine stays a steady 12.6 and its got a brand new VR on it.. doesn't matter what RPM its pulling it stays the same.... gotta be a bab stator.

  2. #22
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    It can be a relay, it could be the stator, it could be a wire, it could be a fuse.

    I had 2 bad relays, too.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Gloomshadow's Avatar
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    fuse coming off.the battery in that little box in the tail looks good to me.. it's 30 amp.. every fuse in the fuse box is good. I guess I can check that battery relay

  4. #24
    Senior Member Gloomshadow's Avatar
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    I'll read on testing that relay then I'll go in and get a reading right off that stator and see..

  5. #25
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    Tom: Sounds like you failed to actually test the alternator(stator) assembly as I recommended to do, prior to replacing the VR.

    Extremely simple multi-meter tests for everything imaginable as follows---with a HEALTHY FULLY CHARGED BATTERY and these are APPROXIMATES:

    STATIC BATTERY VOLTAGE with everything off: approx 13.2 volts DC
    BATTERY VOLTAGE with 1 headlight on and idle of 1000RPM: approx 13.1-13.5 volts DC
    BATTERY VOLTAGE """""""""""""""""""""""""" 3000RPM: approx 13.7-14.5 volts DC
    THREE PHASE STATOR CONTINUITY: Continuity between wires 1&2...2&3...1&3
    THREE PHASE STATOR AC OUTPUT: @ approx 2500RPM 15-20 volts AC between each set of wires
    THREE PHASE STATOR AC TOTAL OUTPUT: @ 2500RPM approx 48-51 volts AC total output

    All of these values and simple multi-meter tests are NOT specifically spelled out in SM so follow them precisely.
    If any of this is still confusing to you seek help from someone locally who's familiar with testing Sportster and Big Twin systems. The tests are identical.

  6. #26
    Senior Member Gloomshadow's Avatar
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    yeah I just threw a VR in there bc it's cheap and easy and the one that was in there was from 2003 anyway.. time for a change.

    I was watching the sportster videos I'll.do the stator tests next..

    its a brand new battery but it wasn't fully charged at the time I last tested it so that may be a factor, I got it trickle charged and I'll get a reading off it after the holidays... no real hurry for me I got the other buell I'm riding the 9sx... I'll figure it out EVENTUALLY, I hate Electrics.. mechanics I love, electrics I HATE.. I can't stand not being able to see whats going on.. subatomic particle bull****

  7. #27
    Senior Member Gloomshadow's Avatar
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    ok Stator AC output was 25.5 to 26V .. my understanding of the checklist is that if total output passes the test that all.the other rotor and continuty checks are unneeded .. am I correct?

    the problem doesn't seem to be stator Or regulator...

    this is a brand new battery... and a brand new VR with a reading of 12.5V at the terminals.. I can't find any problems with the fuses.. battery terminals are clean.. ground at the tail is clean. .. maybe it's that battery relay or a bad wire somewhere?

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloomshadow View Post
    ok Stator AC output was 25.5 to 26V .. my understanding of the checklist is that if total output passes the test that all.the other rotor and continuty checks are unneeded .. am I correct?

    the problem doesn't seem to be stator Or regulator...

    this is a brand new battery... and a brand new VR with a reading of 12.5V at the terminals.. I can't find any problems with the fuses.. battery terminals are clean.. ground at the tail is clean. .. maybe it's that battery relay or a bad wire somewhere?
    You can test the relays by swapping them out and looking for voltage changes. You really have to watch those cheap VR's. I didn't heed the warning on the forum(s), and went with an Amazon VR, it was about $60.

    It was wired in REVERSE!

    When I connected it, and turned everything on, I heard a pop. I didn't know what that was. It turned out to be one of the relays and I had similar symptoms that you're describing.

    Swapping out the relays will very quickly tell you if one is bad, as you'll see the dash become inoperable, etc. Those relays are easy to come by - they're at all the parts stores. Don't just go replacing them, because if your VR is reversed like mine was, it's just going to pop it again.

    P.S. By reversed, I mean that the factory had used the wrong wire colors to indicate positive/negative, meaning that a visual inspection wouldn't tell you anything.

  9. #29
    Senior Member Gloomshadow's Avatar
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    ok thanks man .. I swap out relays once holidays are over.. I was getting ready to check connectors and start looking for damaged wires , I think my stator is ok actually.. I didn't hear any pops or anything when I started the bike.. swapping the VR changed nothing that wasn't my problem but it was a ancient VR from 2003 that was on there so I swapped it anyway

  10. #30
    Senior Member Gloomshadow's Avatar
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    ok I swap all relays around and no change..so they are all good relays. I put my volt meter on AC and take a reading right at stator output, it's just two contacts in the connector.. I get 26V at idle, I gjve it throttle and the voltage GOES DOWN NOT UP.. goes down to 13V at like 2500rpm. that cant be right. Then if I switch my volt meter contacts around backwards I get no reading off the stator at all... that seems wrong also.



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