Go the one to two sizes over stock boring - having the cyl - center honed by machine guide - get a hi-comp piston - 10.5 or 11.0 from any of the engine kit groups, Nallin, NHRS, Millinium, Axtell, S&S, etc. - also order a stage 2 head with the extras put in the head listed below - as well as Total seal rings, or head work can be handled the other of two ways - if you know of a good shop that does head work -go with them, go with a lot bigger intake valve and a little bigger exhaust valve, 3to 5 angle port and polish for breathing, a little flow bench clean up and clearancing, Ti valves, SS seats, stepped guides, premium seals, heavy duty ti springs, enlarged oil passage hole, heavy duty rockers, Ti push rods in the proper size, Top & Bottom end rebuild gasket set, cam set, 580 cam - front set - heavy duty cam bearings, SE HD oil pump gear and gasket, SE programmable ignition or a Crane cams ignition with a modified timing cup - set to 5 curve and 7500 rpms - the SE will be set for 2 and the Crain has to have an extra hole cut about 180 degree away for the extra spark - lol - this does make tachs cheaper - you can program either though, but i'd only do so with a dyno on hand, with the Crain Cams programmable soft and hardware - my intake is a CV40 Torque-stack fitted with a stack filter, with carb spring suports, the carb has a Dial-A-Jet set at minimum, jetted at 45/155 and needle shimmed at 0.05 and the slide polished - response is nice - a poor mans Force exhaust - a Jardine Header - using the stock front lower header mounting hardware, attached - uncut - to a D&D Blast Exhaust can - still 200 bucks cheaper than a Force was when they where on the market and almost as powerfull with a world more reliability - air-screw 3 1/4 turns out.
Some good shopping could bring this in from 1000 to 2000 max - all this would turn your Blast into Mr. Toads wild ride and a great start into the dark side - add rear-sets, Works suspension and you are very deep indead - lol