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Thread: XB12R Exhaust Header Mounting Studs

  1. #11
    Senior Member GregoXB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    The Jims tool. By far.
    http://www.jimsusa.com/pdf/instructi...ts/1705-IS.pdf This one?

    Any tips, tricks, pitfalls to watch out for? Any possibility of saving the original threads?

    The stud is flush with the engine, is it worth attempting to weld a nut to it?
    Last edited by GregoXB; 10-09-2018 at 09:38 PM.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
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    penetrating fluid , left handed drill bits.

  3. #13
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregoXB View Post
    I have to do this job. What's the consensus as to what is the best way to remove the broken header stud? I can see that EZ out is clearly a no.
    with head on or off the motor?????????????

  4. #14
    Senior Member GregoXB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    with head on or off the motor?????????????
    Its the front stud. I was hoping to remove the headers and attempt the repair with the head on. No bueno?

  5. #15
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    NOT being critical but from your prior posts i'm deducing you're not very mechanically inclined which typically means you have minimal tools. if that's the case have a "pro" do it or assist. what i do is:
    1-buy the finest penetrant spray fluid you can find. spray.....let soak for an hour....spray again....soak....spray.
    2-JIMS fixture tool a must as shaughn mentioned. stud is medium strength steel....threads aluminum. a recipe for disaster if you don't know what you're doing and lack patience.
    3-center punch the stud....start with 1/8th drill and it MUST be extremely sharp. drill completely thru the stud till you barely touch aluminum.
    4-increase hole size with each step-up in drill size till you reach appropriate size for the EZ-out you're using.
    5-heat the head area around the stud. it's aluminum so don't get nuts. then and only then try and remove broken stud with EZ-out. patience and a TENDER TOUCH required.
    if the stud remnant won't budge it must now be drilled out. properly done you won't harm the existing threads.
    patience....common sense...JIMS tool all required. if you're lacking 1 or more ingredients have a pro do it.

  6. #16
    Senior Member GregoXB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    NOT being critical but from your prior posts i'm deducing you're not very mechanically inclined which typically means you have minimal tools. if that's the case have a "pro" do it or assist. what i do is:
    1-buy the finest penetrant spray fluid you can find. spray.....let soak for an hour....spray again....soak....spray.
    2-JIMS fixture tool a must as shaughn mentioned. stud is medium strength steel....threads aluminum. a recipe for disaster if you don't know what you're doing and lack patience.
    3-center punch the stud....start with 1/8th drill and it MUST be extremely sharp. drill completely thru the stud till you barely touch aluminum.
    4-increase hole size with each step-up in drill size till you reach appropriate size for the EZ-out you're using.
    5-heat the head area around the stud. it's aluminum so don't get nuts. then and only then try and remove broken stud with EZ-out. patience and a TENDER TOUCH required.
    if the stud remnant won't budge it must now be drilled out. properly done you won't harm the existing threads.
    patience....common sense...JIMS tool all required. if you're lacking 1 or more ingredients have a pro do it.
    Thank you Lunatic, I appreciate the tips. This is exactly what I was looking for. PaulPud is my go to guy for the big jobs. I won't be starting the job till this Saturday, so until then, I will be applying PB blaster on the regular.

  7. #17
    Senior Member konarider94's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregoXB View Post
    http://www.jimsusa.com/pdf/instructi...ts/1705-IS.pdf This one?

    Any tips, tricks, pitfalls to watch out for? Any possibility of saving the original threads?

    The stud is flush with the engine, is it worth attempting to weld a nut to it?
    With the Jims tool it is possible to save the original threads but not guaranteed. Dont start with anything smaller if you plan to use one. The tool is a guide and only works with the correct size drill bit. Otherwise it will likely follow any other pilot hole that will not be centered correctly. Only time i used one it was centered so perfect I drilled out the stud and was able to pull the threads from the stud out of the hole with pliers. The threads uncoiled like they were made out of a piece of wire. It couldnt have been any better if using a mill. My experience was a front stud with engine and head still in the bike.

    Id be tempted to try welding a nut to the stud but you might have to smooth it out with a grinder or flap wheel if it doesnt go well. Then you could revert back to a Jims tool.
    Last edited by konarider94; 10-10-2018 at 02:34 PM.

  8. #18
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    Thank you Lunatic, I appreciate the tips. This is exactly what I was looking for. PaulPud is my go to guy for the big jobs. I won't be starting the job till this Saturday, so until then, I will be applying PB blaster on the regular.

    anytime greg. you know that. for a bit of clarity try what i've outlined if no access to jims' exhaust port tool. if you can borrow the tool then the procedure is different....what was mentioned above. paul's excellent and i'm sure he's done these before. happens frequently on XB's and older sportsters. if you were closer i'd just tell you to drop it off and i'd tackle it for you but sounds like you and paul have it covered. also greg when job is completed and you're remounting either stocker or hawkins or drummer muffler....you know...the ones in stock configuration and dimensions....carefully torque up the straps and CLOSELY CHECK the 2 bushings that attach front muffler mount to bottom of engine case. and on the muffler straps the FRONT STRAP threaded post MUST FACE THE LEFT SIDE OF BIKE...the REAR 2 STRAPS MUST FACE THE RIGHT SIDE OF BIKE.

  9. #19
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    PB blaster comes to mind, if that don't work I do still have some top secret stuff you could try.



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