Reply With Quotehttp://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/m...riving-lights/
This is an interesting read, before you install some driving lights.
OK.....I am considering being the frontman for a true ulysses owner's manual. Set aside the normal BS of a manual and tell us all what we really need to know. Here is what I have learned in my first 6000 miles:
1. Turn in the original muffler for a warranty replacement muffer
2. Check out the rear wheel bearing and axle.....replace with better parts (someone can help me source the best replacement here)
3. I need driving lights and I am open the the best type
4. Heat on the right leg can be improved. Both additional ducting as well as insulation from the rider can help. I could attach pics of what I did, as well as what others have done.
5. The original tires don't last too long...maybe 5k. I replaced mine with Metzeler Roadtec Z6's.....they are rumored to last 10k miles. I couldn't complain with the originals until I had to replace them so early.
6. I currently have a check engine light that I have so far been unable to figure out. If anyone has the knowledge to get the code out of the bike without a dealer or special equipment we should post it.
If anyone else follows this thread and has some input I would be very interested in compiling all of our knowledge and writing a good article for all of the ulysses owners out there.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/m...riving-lights/
This is an interesting read, before you install some driving lights.
just got my xb12xt last week at a steal.Yes i know harley dropped the line but so what. Im having a blast now and thats all that counts. Anyway, what happend to your muffler? And whats the difference in the warrenty one. Mine has to meet california smog and sound from the factory. It has a solinoid controlled baffel in it. Manual says to optimize performance. I will know more about it when i get factory service book. My rear wheel bearings are sealed and look heafty but who knows. what happend to yours. I have 5678miles to catch up with you so your comments are helpfull.
My muffler has lost it's coat of black heat proof (ha ha) paint, and looks rusty. It still works fine, apart from the fact that I have removed the cable that makes the valve work then wired the valve open. Is sound a bit better but is much smoother. The good thing about this mod is that it is totaly reversable and it passes out UK MOT test.
The warranty replacement muffler is just the same!
Great choice of bike!
Recently bought a 2008 demo XB12XT with 400km on it.
I'm on the UKBEG site and based on what I've been reading there I'm doing the following;
- putting a cable tie on the top of the rubber boot on my clutch cable (in front of the engine) seemingly there is a join here and this keeps out water !!
- doing a breather mod - dont want my engine venting into my airbox so pulling those tubes out of there, blocking the holes in the filter baseplate and routing the tubes to drip on the ground.
- fitting a blanking plate with a grease nipple in it to the gearbox output shaft - its hollow and has needle bearing in there - this will allow me grease it with LM grease of HD transmission oil as it doesnt get much lubrication
- fitting a FS Belt Tensioner - replace the standard static belt tensioner with a sprung tensioner - keeps a constat tension on the belt but "gives" if you go over a bump and the bike rises - the stock one puts load on your belt and rear bearings etc.
- I'm also going to fit a heat barrier under my airbox filter base plate to keet as much heat away from here as possible - cool air is better for combustion !!
- also have a belly pan mudflap to stop mud and water being thrown by the front wheel onto the underside of the exhaust - Palmer product in the UK sell them.
- Also have a mudflap from these to fit to the pathetic front mudguard
- also have a Acumen gear indicator to fit - just want to know what gear I'm in - sad I know........
- was also considering doing the headlight mod - to get both lights lit when I'm on full beam - might not do it as I dont ride much at night - if you do this then your park light works differently I think too.
Think thats all for now !!
Eric.
The headlamp mod can be done by just switching the switch half way on. You get both lights on as and when you want, with out having to tinker with the electrics.
Great bike, have fun.
:) Hi I just wondering with regard to your advice to remove cable from exhaust dos your engine light came on after that or not? Any improvement in engine ruining and sound? What exactly this interactive valve do?
I think what it does is open slowly as you open power - my understanding is it keeps a bit of back pressure there until the bike is revving higher then will open it up.
I think what some people do is get a piece of wire and wire this flap permanently open. My opinion is that I'm no tuning expert and dont understand enough about this to do it so I leave it alone.
If someone has a dyno and test equipment to measure what this does and understands what they're at then fine, go for it, if not then best left alone !!
We're not all racers so dont need to get the last hp out of the bike at the risk of sacrificing reliability.
Just my 2c
Eric.
hi, I did this to my Ully after doing the breather and air box mods and was amazed at the difference it made to performance and sound!!!
It sounds deeper and runs smoother and if you can unhook the cable from the exhaust and then just wire the butterfly valve open the light doesn't come on.
But first just wire it open to the bracket for the nose cone and ride it for a while and see if you like it first before disconnecting.
after market pipes dont use the valve so cant see it doing any damage? Im real happy with mine and I was going to get after market pipes but sticking with stock now.
cheers from New Zealand
I have wired open the valve, done a breather mod and opened up my air box and I am very happy with the results.
I may mod my muffler just to get the deaper sound, the performance is fine.
:)
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