Don’t feel stupid. No one is here to judge, just exchanging info.
Except Cooter. He is a jerk!
I LIKE SCORPIONS! AND BEER!
The Showa upside down fork will hold a bunch of oil in the damper assembly unless it's pumped dry* but a BPF fork is easy to 'dump and run' for a fluid change.
Brands DO matter in that they are normally for a specific bike and the 'weight' can be very different. That will DRAMATICALLY change the damping of the forks. For a flip, meh, whatever, it will work OK with no harm done.
For a bike you like, it isn't much harder to take the fork (thats already in your hand) apart, replace the seals, check the sliders, and put fresh oil of the right viscosity in them. Your adjusters will thank you and worn sliders SUCK when you want to confidently corner.
* stop laughing A-A-Ron
Don’t feel stupid. No one is here to judge, just exchanging info.
Except Cooter. He is a jerk!
Steels and seals if you’re gonna do it right. Also get a spring compressor. About $20-$25 on the ‘bay. And a 8mm DEEP allen.
And this^^^, not worth fighting the spring, even once. But backing the pre-load off completely helps when you're as cheap as I am and bought the fork tools only after the tenth set of fork seals job.. and the rigged rigid wood clamp/hose clamp/metal strap almost takes your eye out
The 5/16 (8mm) long allen socket shouldn't be the "ball end" malarky either. The allen bolt at the end is shallow and will strip if not completely engaged and a NIGHTMARE if you eff it up.
As stated oil weight has nothing to do with rider weight. It's a damping thing.
Thats true for holding weight. Thats all a springs job. But a heavy load will also need more damping. The good news is the Showa upside down fork that Buell uses has a pretty large adjustment range.
I wouldn't suggest messing with fork oil weight unless you are maxed out on an adjustment, the only way to get more damping after that is to get a thicker oil.