G,day from downunder I have a 2002 X1 Lightning and have just had the fork seals replaced and new brake pads going in along with a fluid change. I am having trouble bleeding the system and getting any pressure to build up at the lever and am not getting a spurt from the return port when releasing the lever so am thinking the seal cups may be shot. Have searched the web for a rebuild kit to no avail so was wondering if there is a Harley kit that will fit the Nissen master cylinder on the Buell???
Front Brake Master Cylinder
- Thread starter Aussie
- Start date
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If you are getting pressure, and holding the lever it doesn't sink to the grip... the M/C is fine. If you want to do it anyway, the bore size (5/8" IIRC) is molded into the casting by the outlet. Pretty easy to purchase a quality kit from anywhere. Probably not a bad way to spend $20 considering its age anyway.
If you are having trouble bleeding, heres some tricks:
1) Check both ports of the M/C. You have the return port and next to it is an equalizing port that is real tiny. Stick a stainless wire/ welding tip cleaner/ jewelers drill bit, something to clean it out.
2) Temporarily rotate the M/C on the bars so that it is as level as possible while bleeding.
3) With pressure on the lever, crack the banjo bolt at the M/C outlet to bleed there. This works 90% of the time for stubborn systems like MV Agusta.
4) Give it time! Fill the M/C, crack or remove the bleeder, grab a beer, and just wait. Note that any buddy calling you about rubber banding or zip tieing the lever closed is wrong. Period.
5) Vacuum bleeders are great but you may need to seal the threads of the bleeder to make it affective. Teflon tape works best but be careful to not cover the hole in the side.
6) In the most stubborn cases, theres the option to remove the caliper, hang it well above the bars (bleeder still up) and reverse gravity bleed it.
Good luck!
A syringe style bleeder is a little easier than pulling the caliper. Cooter’s right about stubborn systems reverse bleeding saves a lot of time. The syringe bleeder has a rubber tip and just remove the bleeder screw completely and fill it with fresh fluid from the master cylinder (so you don’t over flow the open master) then just push the fluid through the caliper to the master. Two times usually all it takes then pump to verify that you have pressure and bleed at the caliper.
Kurlon
Well-known member
I just went through this, Cooter's nailed it. You're fighting a big air bubble right in the master itself and is super stubborn. The key is learning the art of the SUBTLE lever flicks. Start with a few slow, full lever pulls, then 1/4 pull and let the lever snap back a few times, you want that shock to help break up air bubbles and coax them to move. Now just subtle, LIGHT squeezes, you're just looking to open the ports so very little actual lever motion. If you watch in the bowl you'll hopefully see a large air bubble move under the left port, and it may release a few tiny ones. Next, slow full pump and hold, crack the banjo and as you keep that lever held, you may hear air, you hopefully will drool brake fluid,give it a moment then tighten BEFORE you release the lever.
Repeat. After a few goes you'll start getting noticeable air spurts when cracking the banjo, and you'll start getting more air in the bowl between lever snaps and tickles. As it starts letting you tickle air out more and more into the bowl you can skip cracking the banjo. When the bubbles lessen again, traditional bleed at the caliper bleeder to finish. I like to follow up a day or two after by taking the master cap off and seeing if I can tickle any remaining air out of the master where it should hopefully gather as the bike sits.
Repeat. After a few goes you'll start getting noticeable air spurts when cracking the banjo, and you'll start getting more air in the bowl between lever snaps and tickles. As it starts letting you tickle air out more and more into the bowl you can skip cracking the banjo. When the bubbles lessen again, traditional bleed at the caliper bleeder to finish. I like to follow up a day or two after by taking the master cap off and seeing if I can tickle any remaining air out of the master where it should hopefully gather as the bike sits.
Barrett
Well-known member
You requesting specific part # and availability for XB front master cylinder rebuild kit?
Harley Davidson part # for full front master cylinder rebuild kit is N220.F---SUFFIX L19C. Application for your X1 and all XB's with base ZTL front braking system.
Dealer system shows over 110 in stock so you should be able to order from local dealer down there.
Harley Davidson part # for full front master cylinder rebuild kit is N220.F---SUFFIX L19C. Application for your X1 and all XB's with base ZTL front braking system.
Dealer system shows over 110 in stock so you should be able to order from local dealer down there.
Gday all, thanks for the replies , all awesome info and Cooters suggestion of cracking the banjo at the M/C worked a treat had the system bleed in a couple of minutes gotta love experience!!! Just been out for a blast and still smilin, these are a hoot to ride, till next time stay shiney side up!!!
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